11/F Times Square, Causeway Bay Tel: 2577 3444 Open: 11.30am-midnight (Friday, Saturday and eve of public holidays until 1am) Cuisine: Primarily European. Price: About HK$220 without drinks and before adding the service charge. Ambience: The large space is divided into two dining rooms: the outside room is larger and has communal tables. The inside room has small tables, and a great view of the open kitchen, where cooks move quietly and efficiently. The restaurant is filled with clever and interesting design details. Pros: It's a good concept of being able to order all savoury and sweet dishes - as well as the by-the-glass wine selection - in small, medium or large portions. Our waiter asked how we wanted our dishes served and efficiently complied with our request that he bring the food two dishes at a time, rather than all at once. Cons: Black truffle prawn toast (HK$36 for small) was saturated with oil, and didn't have much flavour, and neither did the chips with truffle and sea salt (HK$25 for small). The veal escalopes - served with sage caper butter sauce (HK$96 for medium) - were tough. Recommended dishes: We were warned by others who had eaten here that the small portions were very small, but we didn't find this to be the case for many of the dishes, including the meatballs in a lightly spiced tomato sauce (HK$29, above left). The three meatballs were large and substantial, although they would have been better with more fat to make them lighter and more moist. Linguine with sea urchin and chilli oil (HK$52 for small, above right) was creamy and rich, and one of the better versions of this dish I've tried. Crispy pork belly with red cabbage (HK$76 for medium, right) wasn't exactly crisp, but the meat was moist, tender and well-flavoured. My favourite dish was the red mullet (HK$80 for medium). The accompaniments of tapenade (olive paste) and pesto sounded like they'd be too strong for the delicacy of the perfectly cooked pieces of fish, but surprisingly, they didn't overwhelm. What else? There's an outdoor terrace for dining under the stars. SML is a sister restaurant to The Press Room, Classified Mozzarella Bar, Classified Cheese Room and The Pawn.