Fare A choice of three, five-course menus to be ordered in advance: Shanghainese, Japanese and new American.
Ambience The private kitchen, which is run by brother and sister team Esther and Andrew Sham (pictured below), is housed in a cosy, low-ceilinged apartment in a residential block in the quaint Star Street precinct. The one table (that seats six to eight people) occupies the first room and offers views further into the flat, although unfortunately not of the kitchen. Esther presents every course in her chef's pinks - not whites - and explains the inspiration for each dish - usually something from her childhood.
Cost HK$500
Turn-ons The intimacy of the surroundings, the care taken with and creativity of the dishes, and the casual interaction with the chef, make for a memorable experience. We tried a selection of dishes from all three menus, the highlights being the 'Not-So-Shanghainese' foie gras Shanghai wontons served with a strip of egg tied in a knot, and the uni spaghetti (pictured) topped with nori, the uni having just been hand-carried into Hong Kong by a friend. The secret ingredient in the rich, sweet spaghetti, said Esther, was Japanese rice wine, while the uni was light and creamy and with just the right hint of sugary flavour. Po Po's Red Bean Dumplings on fermented rice jelly and osmanthus honey made a delightfully fresh end to a thoroughly enjoyable experience.
Turn-offs It's only open on certain nights a week and sporadically at lunchtime, and is usually booked weeks ahead. The sun-dried tomato crab meat tatin topped with a sunny-side up egg, from the New American menu, while attractively presented and balanced in terms of flavours, didn't have the same finesse as the rest of the dishes.
Drinks Andrew runs a wine import business, so diners can choose from his collection lining the walls of the apartment.
