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Susan Jung

W Place, 52 Wyndham Street, Central
Tel: 6768 5252
Open: noon-2.30pm (last order), 7pm-11.30pm
Cuisine: Italian. 
Price: About HK$500 without drinks and before adding the service charge. 
Ambience: The ground-floor space is an airy bar that's open to Wyndham Street; the next two floors are the dining areas, while the kitchen and private dining (with seating for eight) are on the  top floor.  
Pros: We saw the food coming to the dining room by dumb waiter so we were worried our dishes wouldn't be served at the optimal temperature, but it wasn't a problem. 
Cons: There seemed to be a lot of service staff but they needed to be waved down. I had to request a dinner menu after sitting for several minutes, had to ask for the dessert menu later in the meal, and on both occasions it took them quite a while before someone took our order. Desserts were enjoyable but the presentations - huge plates with dabs and squiggles of sauce - were rather 1980s. The main course of veal cutlet Milanese (HK$270) - a special for the evening - had tender meat, but the flavour wasn't as interesting as the dishes that preceded it. The music selection was eclectic, to put it politely; my guest called it 'weird'. 
Recommended dishes: I was excited to see pan-fried sweetbreads (HK$170) listed as an appetiser, and these didn't disappoint. It was a generous serving of tender sweetbreads that had been perfectly seared so they had a crusty exterior. A starter portion of homemade buckwheat tagliatelle with duck ragout (HK$130, or HK$190 as a main course) saw my guest clean his plate. Paccheri pasta with fresh crabmeat (HK$140 for a starter portion, HK$210 for a main course, left) was expensive - the amount of crab was scant - but the pasta was firm and toothsome, and the sauce was well-flavoured. For dessert, the simple and surprisingly light potato cake went well with the sauteed apples. We couldn't taste the sage or lavender in the sage-lemon bavarese with lavender sauce (above) but there's no faulting the bavarese, which was ethereal. 
What else? W52's owner is Benjamin Lung, who was one of the founders of Va Bene restaurant in Lan Kwai Fong.

