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Wild and adventurous

The trend for animal-inspired jewellery has been gaining momentum. Jewellers such as Stenzhorn, Cartier, De Grisogono and Carvin French are already well known for their jewelled wildlife pieces, but other designers are also catching on.

Kate Swan Malin, associate vice-president, public relations, with Christie's Hong Kong, said animal-inspired jewels from Cartier, Daniel Brush, Boivin, JAR, Carvin French, and others were highly sought after by collectors and often drew strong prices when they appear in Christie's sales of fine jewellery. 'Among the most well-known animal-inspired jewels are, perhaps, the Cartier panthers, which are truly magnificent creations desired all over the world,' she said.

In Christie's London sale on Friday, a pair of Cartier emerald and enamel leopard ear clips, given as gifts by the Duchess of Windsor to Princess Michael of Kent on her wedding, will be up for auction. The Duchess owned a world-famous collection of jewellery that included many Cartier panther pieces.

These panther creations were inspired by Jeanne Toussaint, a close friend of Louis Cartier, who was responsible for the Haute Joaillerie range from 1934.

In Christie's 2007 Hong Kong Magnificent Jewellery and Jadeite sale, a diamond and sapphire panther bangle by Cartier was sold for nearly HK$3.5 million, even though the estimated sale price had been between HK$800,000 and HK$1.2 million.

Malin said: 'So much goes into the value of a piece of jewellery - the designer being very important of course, but the materials used and the design all relate to any jewel's value.

'The Cartier panther and the butterfly brooches by JAR are two examples that do very well at auction because of this special combination of superior craftsmanship, exquisite design quality and extreme rarity in the case of any jewel by JAR.'

However, there were plenty of animal-inspired pieces that came at a more attainable price, Malin said.

'Christie's' jewellery sale in Geneva this week had two special pieces by Rene Boivin; a gold and gem-set poisson pendant with a pre-sale estimate of US$5,000-US$7,000 and a pair of gold, moonstone and aquamarine starfish ear clips with a pre-sale estimate of US$20,000-US$25,000.'

David Webb, one of the most sought-after American jewellery designers, often uses animals for inspiration, featuring tigers, unicorns, monkeys and horses in his designs. 'David Webb's signature enamelled animal bangles and brooches are always a draw at Christie's auctions,' Malin said.

The Wildlife Collection by German jeweller Stenzhorn has some truly jaw-dropping pieces featuring big bold statement necklaces and rings in the form of tigers, lions and other wild beasts. The company donates part of the revenue from its animal collections to the WWF in support of its projects to protect polar bears.

Chris Stenzhorn, sales director of Stenzhorn, said the company picked animals with strong character or ones with which people could identify. 'We try to create the characteristics of each animal in the jewellery,' he said. 'It's all about emotions and how to bring it into the piece and in the end to the consumer. The mix of living jewels and colour stones with extraordinary design brings life to a beautiful piece of jewellery.'

To get the best results, designers need to use the best-quality stones. Stenzhorn compares making jewellery to cooking. 'If you cook a good meal with fresh ingredients of high quality you will definitely get a better taste,' he said.

The company tries to avoid trends in the jewellery market, preferring to keep an element of freedom in its creativity. Stenzhorn said the company's customers were elegant, bold and adventurous. 'Our customers want to get beautiful jewellery for a reasonable price,' he said.

De Grisogono is being recognised for its life-inspired pieces. The company was selected to participate in last year's Biennale de Antiquaires, an antique dealer fair of antiques, fine art and jewellery in Paris, where it showcased a dolphin bracelet and a peacock set. Only the elite in the industry meet the criteria of this renowned show, so it was quite a hoist for the brand.

Fawaz Gruosi, De Grisogono brand president and founder, said detail was crucial when featuring animals in jewellery pieces.

'The design replicates the details of each animal in the way its fur may appear in movement or how its skin glistens in the sun,' he said. 'The most important aspect in bringing life to my jewellery designs is the expertise of our atelier. Everything is handmade, from the use of stones and our haute couture stone-setting techniques to our special design touches that make our jewellery truly innovative.'

The new collection uses different animals such as beetles, frogs and octopuses as its focus and these are placed on a galuchat bracelet. De Grisogono is the first to use galuchat - leather made from the skin of sharks and stingrays containing small indentations - in making jewellery and watch straps.

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