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Cold cases

If humidity and exposure to the sun's rays bring one set of problems for your complexion, cold winds and drier air bring another.

The contrast between a hot summer and a cool winter can wreak havoc with people's skin - particularly around the eyes and on the lips - if they don't have the right products. Those with eczema or acne can suffer more, but for most people, flaky, itchy skin is the problem.

'The most obvious issue that winter brings is dry skin due to the drop in humidity,' says Samantha Arnold, regional vice-president for Asia at Aromatherapy Associates. 'The skin also becomes more sensitive with temperature changes. Fine lines can therefore appear more obvious due to the dryness.

'Your skin is the largest organ in your body and is exposed to the harsh elements. A little bit of tender loving care is needed during winter.'

Helen Greene, director at the Four Seasons Hotel spa, says dehydration often becomes an issue as people tend not to drink as much water as during summer. They turn on heaters and perhaps don't adjust their skincare routine to match the weather.

'And we wonder why our skin is looking wrinkly from dryness and dehydration,' says Greene.

But do we need to spend money on an entire new range of skincare products, or can we simply modify the use of the ones we have? Skin specialists say some changes to your home skincare and facial routine is the way to go as our skin responds differently to cool temperatures.

'It all depends on how your skin reacts to the weather. In most cases, oil glands will be less active in winter, so a gentler cleanser and a richer moisturiser will be needed,' says Priscilla Mui, education manager at Clinique. 'People who do not want to change their basic skincare line should add a hydrating serum or gel moisturiser to their daily regimen.'

Arnold advises against using an entirely new skincare line.

'I would suggest introducing a few new products to your regimen - those that are designed to treat winter concerns,' Arnold says. 'Facial oils are effective and help to restore the oil balance in dry skin, softening the look of fine lines.'

Greene says changing your entire home skincare range and routine can be exciting and fun, but it can be expensive. Instead, she suggests introducing a couple of seasonal items.

'I find a better option is to modify my skincare routine by adding one or two products that match my skin at different times of the year, and simply increasing or decreasing the frequency of using a mask or exfoliator and using a thicker or thinner moisturiser,' she says.

The time of day you apply moisture and how often you treat your skin is also important. Arnold advises applying moisturisers to your body and face after bathing or toning to lock in the moisture.

She also suggests continuing sun protection to provide a barrier against the environment and to keep drinking plenty of water, possibly 'exchanging cold water for hot water and lemon which is known to purify the blood and remove toxins that are responsible for troubled skin'.

She suggests more frequent hydrating facials enhanced with lip and eye treatments, 'as these areas always suffer when it's cold'.

Greene says exfoliating mitts in the shower allow deep moisturising body products to be better absorbed into wet skin. 'Use a thicker body moisturiser after a shower when the skin is damp to get better absorption,' she says.

Mui says formulas she looks for in winter for the entire body - and lips - are those that contain a humectant (a non-oily ingredient that attracts moisture from the atmosphere) and lipids. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid are humectants. Lipids act as the 'mortar' that bonds skin cells. Plant lipids are often used in skin creams.

'It is also important to maintain the strength of the moisture barrier by using products containing an ingredient such as dimethicone,' says Mui.

Dimethicone is an emollient used to treat or prevent dry, itchy skin or minor skin irritations.

'Remember to use mild cleansers and lukewarm water to wash the face and the body, and then pat dry softly afterwards,' she says. 'To avoid further irritating stressed skin, use products that have been allergy tested and are 100 per cent fragrance-free.'

There are also simple ingredients to prevent skin becoming even drier. Arnold says products with a lot of cosmetic chemicals or alcohol are best left alone, as they can increase the rate of moisture loss.

'Products containing natural carrier oils, plant extracts and good quality essential oils will be most beneficial for skin at this time,' she says.

Family physician Lauren Bramley, who specialises in skincare treatments and products, recommends taking vitamin D supplements of at least 2000 IU per day, omega 3 and using plenty of olive oil and coconut oil for hydration in winter. 'Topical omega 3 creams are also available and are good for hydration in the winter,' she says. 'For extremely dry skin, eczema and/or acne, consider vitamin A testing and treatment,' Bramley says.

'Vitamin A is effective for skin but it's a fat-soluble vitamin, so monitoring by a doctor is necessary.'

Mui even suggests avoiding caffeine and alcohol, as they can reduce moisture levels. Certain foods are also contributors to your skin's appearance.

'Consume foods rich in vitamin E, omega-3 and vitamin B complex and eat fresh fruits and raw vegetables, which can also provide most of the nourishment our skin requires,' Mui says.

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