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Uncorked

South Africa produces a startling array of high-quality sauvignon blancs. As explained by Cathy van Zyl (the first master of wine to qualify inside the country and associate editor of Platter's, South Africa's definitive wine guide), this magnificent variety has everything to do with the nation's rugged terrain and narrow coastal plains.

'In keeping with the diversity of our soils and indigenous flora, South African sauvignon blancs are made in a wide variety of styles: there are those that can sometimes approach the New Zealand 'tinned white asparagus/pea' character but we mostly prefer a more tropical fruit spectrum when it comes to styles that are deemed as 'fruity'. There are also numerous mineral styles, with zingy acidities and aromas/flavours of wet pebbles; and many others with a more quincey black currant leaf character. Whatever your fancy, there's a savvy from South Africa for your nose and palate, and wallet.' I couldn't have said it better.

Ridgeback, sauvignon blanc 2008, Paarl, South Africa

The Ridgeback brand takes its name from Rhodesian Ridgeback, a canine breed from South Africa, but this wine's no dog. Offering excellent complexity with some distinctive tropical fruit aromas, this is not in the style of a breezy, high intensity New Zealand sauvignon blanc; rather, it has the restrained complexity of a white pessac-leognan from Bordeaux, but with riper fruit. This interesting wine features soft acidity and excellent length. Gentle butter and nut hints suggest it was partially barrel fermented as does the light tannic texture. Available for HK$140 at Sheppard Brothers (www.sheppardbrothers.com).

Debra is also drinking:

Graham Beck sauvignon blanc 2008, Franschhoek, South Africa

Citrus and passion fruit with green pepper accents. Spritzy, fresh, vibrant with a tart finish. Available for HK$135 at Sheppard Brothers.

Robertson Retreat sauvignon blanc 2008

Ripe, white peachy fruit, honeyed notes, dense and weighty with just a hint of sweetness. The warm finish can be attributed to the 15 per cent alcohol level. Available for HK$110 at Sheppard Brothers.

Robertson sauvignon blanc 2009

Honey-scented, ripe, peach and tropical fruit. Weighty, moderate acidity and a savoury, tangy finish. A simple wine that delivers. Available for HK$70 at Sheppard Brothers.

Villiera Bush Vine sauvignon blanc 2009

Piercing green flavours, along the lines of Loire Valley sancerre. Lean, tart, crisp and bracing. Excellent with steamed fish. Has a clean dry finish. Available for HK$114 at Wine'n'Things (www.winenthingshk.com).

Rietvallei Estate sauvignon blanc 2008

Quiet fruit bowl, full bodied, good mouth-feel, modest acidity, reason- able length and an interesting, honey-hint finish for smooth, easy drinking. Available for HK$77 at Fine Vintage (Far East) (tel: 2896 6108).

Debra Meiburg is a master of wine

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