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Susan Jung

Upper G/F, Central Park Hotel, 263 Hollywood Road, Central 
Tel: 2851 2820 
Open: Monday-Saturday 6.30pm-11pm 
Cuisine: Japanese. 
Price: It's a set price of HK$1,680 per person without drinks and service charge. 
Ambience: The door at the entrance is large, imposing and seemingly impenetrable, but it slides open quietly at the push of a button. Diners walk past a black statue of a steer as they go up the stairs to the restaurant, whose main room has a large table as well as seats in front of the open kitchen (right) headed by chef Hiroyuki Saotome.  The wait staff are knowledgeable: our two main servers gave us a detailed explanation of every dish. Individual refrigerated lockers - marked with the names of the tycoons and celebrities whose contents they belong to - line two walls of the kitchen; the waitress explained that they hold special beef, which  would be served the next time those diners  ate there. 
Pros: The entire meal was enjoyable. 
Cons: The price means we can't afford to eat here as often as we'd like. The meal is served at a leisurely pace, so don't come here if you want just a quick bite. 
Recommended dishes: The meal was everything Japanese haute cuisine should be: seasonal ingredients that were subtly flavoured and beautifully presented. Highlights of the nine-course set meal were the minced duck breast with Kyoto carrot in a fragrant yuzu broth; mashed lily bulb dumpling in a vividly green Brassica napus (rapeseed) sauce with black truffles (above); and charcoal-grilled wagyu served with three dips (vinegar, sea salt and sesame), although the meat was so fatty and flavourful it didn't need anything else. The sushi (chopped toro, chopped wagyu with black and white truffle, and bamboo wrapped in seared wagyu) and sashimi (snapper, toro and monkfish liver) showed off pristine ingredients. The final savoury dish of sea urchin truffle rice was cooked for each table in individual earthenware pots and scooped out as needed - it was so good my guest and I ate three bowls each but other, less greedy diners took their excess rice home. 
What else? The menu changes every two to three weeks but they change some of the dishes more frequently for regular customers. Wagyu Kaiseki Den received a star in the 2010 Michelin Guide. 




Wagyu Kaiseki Den