18 Kau U Fong, Central Tel: 2555 2202 Open: 12.30pm-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm Cuisine: Chinese. Price: About HK$375 without drinks or desserts and before adding the service charge. Ambience: The upstairs area is far more comfortable and private than downstairs, which despite the curtains partially covering the windows, makes you feel on display to passersby. Apart from the huge chandeliers, the d?cor is quite basic. Pros: I like The Chairman enough to have come here five times in just a few months. The menu is limited which isn't a problem because it means there's a better chance of getting good dishes. Flavours are subtle, the ingredients are top-notch and the food is made without monosodium glutamate. Cons: When it gets busy, the food can come out at a slow pace. Steamed chicken with aged Chinese wine, ginger and spring onions (HK$138) featured fresh chicken but the flavour was bland. My favourite dish, which I've eaten at all my dinners here and will continue to order on future visits - is steamed flower crab with aged Shaoxing wine and fragrant chicken oil (above, at market price), which comes with rice noodles to soak up the sauce. On the night of the review, the crab was as fresh and sweet as ever, but the sauce was unusually salty and it was the first time we didn't polish off the entire dish. Recommended dishes: Crisp small yellow croaker with balsamic dressing (HK$68, right) was fried so perfectly that almost the entire fish was edible, except for the spine (the head is especially delicate). Pan-fried minced pork cake with salted fish (HK$68 for a starter, HK$128 for a main) was so good we wished we'd ordered the larger portion. The soup of the day was a light, smooth and peppery pig's lung with gingko. The surprise dish of the evening was a bland-sounding mushrooms with bean curd (HK$118) that was elevated from the ordinary to the delicious by the variety of fresh mushrooms (which included shiitake and morels) and bean curd (including fresh tofu and fu juk pei or bean curd skin). What else? Often, set meals at Chinese restaurants are not a good deal, but the one here is: for HK$398 per person, you get four appetisers (including the yellow croaker), soup, six dishes (including the flower crab) and dessert.