5/F The Mira Hotel Hong Kong, 118 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui Tel: 2315 5999 Open: 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-10.30pm Cuisine: French. Price: About HK$600 without drinks and before adding the service charge. Ambience: The restaurant wasn't easy to find because the designated lift was out of service. Taking the regular lift meant we had to walk down a corridor and past swinging doors bearing a small sign. The main dining room is decorated in dark tones and has dim but sufficient light. Pros: Singaporean chef Justin Quek's food is notable for its lightness - we had three courses but didn't feel too stuffed afterwards. Cons: Our original table was chilly so we asked to be moved. Our new table was warmer, but it was also in the space leading to the entrance and the washrooms, so we had a view of all the other customers' comings and goings. The servers had good intentions but the execution wasn't quite right: when we told the friendly manager that we were sharing all our dishes, he suggested that our two main courses should be served one after the other so we could eat them at optimal temperature, which we agreed to happily. But another waiter brought both dishes at the same time. The flaky apple tart for two was delicate, made with thin layers of pastry (not the expected puff pastry) and topped with apple slices sliced equally thin, but it was very expensive at HK$199. Recommended dishes: Baked lobster bisque (HK$138) was topped with an airy herb souffle. The bisque was intense in flavour but light in texture, without the heavy creaminess of other versions. Tagliatelle with saut?ed Maine lobster in aromatic oil (HK$288) was one of the best pasta dishes we've tasted in recently; as with the bisque, the sauce was light but with strong flavours. Our main course of suckling pig with truffle salad and spiced red wine sauce (HK$308, above) had moist, tender meat contrasting with the delicately crunchy skin. Baked miso-marinated cod in ginger and lime sauce (HK$258, right) was the least interesting, probably because the miso and cod pairing was just too familiar, being served everywhere from humble Japanese restaurants to Nobu. But it was cooked beautifully, with the moist fish getting textural contrast from the tangle of fried vegetables on top. What else? The restaurant offers a five-course set dinner for HK$550.