Choc stars
It takes a long time just to make a few artisan chocolates. That's why I would not envision a mass production of my chocolates and only prepare according to advance orders,' says executive pastry chef Anthony Qin Tao of Hyatt Regency Sha Tin, as he puts the finishing touches on his first batch of Valentine's Day Kiss Me chocolate lips, which are bright, shiny and lipstick red.
It was Qin's eye for detail, along with his culinary technique and experience in competitions, that won him the gold medal and title of the first Chinese chocolate master. Qin started working when he was 16 at a Shanghai bakery. Although he never attended a culinary school, Qin has come far, working at an impressive number of pastry kitchens, including at Robuchon a Galera in Macau and the Shanghai Grand Hyatt, where a Swiss executive pastry chef introduced him to chocolate making.
Qin says he enjoys making chocolates, although the work can be difficult. 'Cutting handmade chocolates into perfect shapes with smooth edges is the hardest thing to do. The ability to translate my ideas into eye-catching tasty creations is important - the ingredients, colour scheme and presentation all reflect the standards and knowledge of the chocolatier.' He aims to start a bespoke service next month, so customers can bring their ideas to him to translate into an edible chocolate creation.
One of Qin's competitors in the first national China Chocolate Master cup in 2007 was Vero executive pastry chef Jeffrey Koo Ka-chun. Koo has more than 14 years of pastry making experience, including at the Mandarin Oriental. He started at Vero in 2008, when owner Roger Chan opened his atelier at Fenwick Pier in Wan Chai. Koo says that working at Vero lets him nurture his creativity, and his goal is to make the brand a worldwide name.
'Traditionally, Europeans are known for making top-grade pastry and chocolates. I want others to realise that Hong Kong chefs can make luxury chocolates. I'm going to France on February 27 for an exhibition, then for a competition in Singapore in April,' says Koo, who's made a name for himself with his chocolate sculptures.
Koo works with a team of six to make about 100 kilograms of chocolate products every day. 'Besides custom-made chocolates for clients, I prefer making pralines with fillings [other than] truffles with nuts,' says Koo, who doesn't have a sweet tooth, so only tries his sweets during tastings. He makes an exception for the chocolates of Jean-Paul Hevin, which he says are his favourites.
Koo describes his work as, 'Adorable, whimsical and appealing. I look for inspiration in what's happening in my life. For the upcoming spring/summer 2010 collection, I employ images of birds, flowers, fruits.'
The Island Shangri-La pastry chef Alain Guillet also lets his creativity flow into his fresh chocolates. 'I enjoy making chocolates,' Guillet says. 'I've worked in patisseries such as Lenotre and Pierre Herme.' His creations include soft caramel ganache dipped in bitter chocolate, almond praline with lemon zest in milk chocolate, and crisp raspberry ganache dipped in bitter chocolate. He believes Hong Kong people are becoming more discerning about chocolates, saying the top picks are those with bitter-sweet chocolate with a moderately sweet filling.
Italian chocolatier Michele Rodelli was hired by Elite Concepts as consultant to put together the initial concept and production of a kaleidoscope of limited quantity Chinese tea essence chocolates for Cha.ke.li (which in Mandarin means tea and chocolate), an artisan boutique hidden in Pacific Place's Ye Shanghai. Rodelli first got into chocolate back in 1994 at the Hotel Eden in Rome. '[For Elite] I was consultant for one year, started all the chocolate production, set up the laboratory research for the ingredients and oversaw chocolate and tea pairing, recipes and presentation.'
Rodelli says making tea-flavoured chocolates requires patience for 18 steps that include infusing cream and tea for 24 hours at four degrees Celsius then heating the ingredients to 65 degrees, straining the mixture, adding the chocolate and butter and emulsifying with a hand-mixer, and leaving the ganache to set for 24 hours at a precise temperature and humidity level.
Daily production at Cha,ke.li is only around 50 pieces, and the shelf life of the chocolates is just a few weeks because they are made without additives.
Mention agnes b. and most people will think of the French fashion label. But the nine agnes b. Delices outlets in the territory also sell assorted tea-flavoured pralines, created at a purpose made facility.
Sufyah Yeung Shu-wing, assistant commercial manager of agnes b. Delices, says: 'The concept was born of Agnes' personal love of exquisite chocolate, a pleasure she wanted to share with the people of Hong Kong as she loves this city.
'To ensure freshness, we have our own chocolate factory in Hong Kong, and most of our products are hand made. A chocolatier is in charge of the production and new flavour development.'
The flavours will please both Western and Asian palates, including dark chocolate hazelnut, lychee and rose dark chocolate, and coffee and tea flavours such as earl grey, green tea and espresso.
Agnes b. Delices and several other international and local chocolate brands are participating in the Harbour City chocolate experience tours which run until March 7 to benefit Project Torchlight, a charity event to help young patients suffering from psychosis, developed by the Hong Kong Early Psychosis Intervention Society. Other participating brands include La Maison du Chocolat, Jean-Paul Hevin, Godiva and Thomas Hass. For information on tour dates and times call the Harbour City customer hotline on 2118 8666.
Bonbon voyage
Agnes b. Delices
Shop 11A, Fashion Walk, Paterson Street, Causeway Bay, tel: 2577 0338. Other branches throughout Hong Kong
Cha.ke.li by Ye Shanghai
Shop 332, Pacific Place, Admiralty, tel: 2918 0093
Chocolux Bar
57 Peel Street, Soho, Central, tel: 2858 8760
Debauve et Gallais
Shop 309, 3/F, Lee Gardens, Hysan Road, Causeway Bay, tel: 2895 8580
Godiva
Shop B236, Times Square, Causeway Bay, tel: 2576 0312. Other branches throughout Hong Kong
Island Gourmet
Island Shangri-La Hotel, Pacific Place, Supreme Court Road, tel: 2820 8550
Jean-Paul Hevin Bar a Chocolat
Shop 2045A, IFC Mall, Central, tel: 2111 9770. Branches in Harbour City (tel: 2735 3268), Times Square (tel: 2111 9967)
La Maison Du Chocolat
Shop 109, Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2801 4122. Branches in Pacific Place (tel: 2522 2010), Elements (tel: 2196 8333), IFC (tel: 2801 4880)
Le Gouter Bernardaud
The Shop 2028, IFC, tel: 2295 3955. Branches in Elements (tel: 2196 8488), Harbour City (tel: 3104 1658)
Mariebelle
Shop 344, Prince's Building, Central, tel: 2522 1098
Monde
Shop 1011, Horizon Plaza, 2 Lee Wing Street, Ap Lei Chau, tel: 2870 2988
Patisserie
Hyatt Regency Hotel Sha Tin, 18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, tel: 3723 1234 (advance orders only)
Thomas Haas
Shop 1001, Miramar Shopping Centre, 132 Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, tel: 2992 0799
Vero
1/F, Fenwick Pier, 1 Lung King Street, Wan Chai, tel: 2559 5882
