Uncorked
Wildly popular in California, zinfandel has yet to find its feet in Hong Kong. Perhaps that's because its raucous berry aromas are too brash for our Francophile palates. Most Californians would argue that nothing beats a dense, juicy glass of zin after a tough day at work - even better, next to the barbecue. Because zinfandel grapes ripen unevenly, the resulting wine offers ripe fruit juxtaposed against crisp, refreshing acidity. Fans of the roasted fruit flavours of southern Rhone reds, Italy's amarone or ripe grenache from Australia's McLaren Vale will see the beauty in zinfandel.
CG Di Arie Shenandoah Valley zinfandel 2005, Sierra Foothills, California
Zinfandel is easily confused with good-quality Australian grenache and this wine particularly so. Red raspberry fruit with pepper accents, moderate density, perfumed and aromatic. Tannins are fine-grained and velvety. Good length, slight bitter note at the finish.
Available for HK$312 at California Grapes International (tel: 9631 1951)
Miraflores Shenandoah Valley zinfandel 2005, Sierra Foothills
Alcoholic, port-like flavours and spirity with cola notes, cherry cake and crisp acidity. A warming wine due to its high alcohol levels finishing with a peppery flourish. Firm tannins and extended length.
Available for HK$300 at California Grapes International
Michael-David Seven Deadly Zins 2006, Lodi, California
Intense spicy cinnamon and clove flavours due to lavish oak. Creamy palate with smoked bacon and pancetta notes, velvety textures, long finish. Mouth-watering acidity, interesting complexity but the fruit could be more prevalent.
Available for HK$278 at WineLink (tel: 2950 0503)
Gnarly Head old vine zinfandel 2007, Lodi
Simple red fruit, aromatically a touch muddled, as though it doesn't know where it's going, but good tannic support and fine length.
Available for HK$188 at Summergate Fine Wines (tel: 2545 4100)
Brazin old vine zinfandel 2007, Lodi
Generous fruit with raisin hints. Spicy, ripe and dense. Round mouth-filling palate with tangible tannins, balanced alcohol and oak. Would benefit from a touch more length.
Available for HK$169 at Summergate Fine Wines
Eberle Zinfandel, Steinbeck and Wine-Bush Vineyards 2006, Paso Robles, California
Warm jammy fruit with roasted notes in keeping with its warm-climate origin. Dense and weighty. Oodles of vanilla oak.
Available for HK$250 at Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8121)
Cline Ancient Vines zinfandel 2007, Contra Costa County, California
Unfortunately, this bottle suffered from corkiness but its good fruit concentration and flavour were still apparent.
Available for HK$144 at Golden Gate Wine (unrated due to cork taint)
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
