Ken Hom describes some of his favourite dining experiences on a recent visit to Beijing, where foodie friends based in the Chinese capital sometimes acted as guides.
Tianjin Bai Jiao Yuan; Xinwenhua Lu, Jia 12, Xicheng district Tel: +86-10-6601-6934
Hong Kong friends had long raved about Tianjin Bai Jiao Yuan, a well-known and inexpensive place that specialises in jiaozi, or dumplings (below). This typical northern dish is usually made of minced pork and cabbage, salt, ginger and spring onions all in a thin wrapper of wheat dough. The dumplings are eaten with great relish with an array of dipping sauces. I knew I was in for a treat when I walked in and was immediately confronted by an open, glassed-in kitchen where chefs were making fresh dumplings. Ignore the kitschy red and gold decor and ask for the English menu (full of misspellings) from the sleepy, half-stoned staff in their pink pyjamas. We chose the classic pork and Chinese cabbage, which was savoury and delicious. The shrimp meat with bean curd was delicate and light, while both the curry beef and hot and spicy beef lived up to their description with a real jolt of spices. However, the best was the crab roe jiaozi, where rich roe was combined with pork to create a sensational dish. This alone was worth the journey. I also liked the way you made your own dipping sauce from plastic containers that had red rice vinegar with pickled garlic, freshly chopped garlic, chopped fresh coriander and chilli oil.
South Beauty; Oriental Plaza, Dong Cheng Qu, Chang An Jie Yi Hao, Dong Fang Guang, Chang Di Xia Yi, Cheng BB Ba Ba Tel: +86-10-85186971
The trend in Beijing seems to be Sichuan food and everyone was raving about the South Beauty chain of restaurants. I went to one (above right) to see what the fuss was about. Unlike restaurants 17 years ago, this had beautiful decor - modern with Chinese traditional touches. However, the main attraction is the food. Try the classic Sichuan tofu dish called fried bean curd with beef and chilli sauce. Here soft cubes of tofu float in a fiery sauce of Sichuan peppercorns and chilli. It was as good as any I've had in Chengdu. The smoked duck was smoky, tender and flavourful. We found the steamed green shoots with soup rather bland but were told it was to cool the palate. A strangely titled dish, updated sliced tender beef in hot oil and stone, was delicious: sliced marinated beef was first cooked in boiling oil with onions, coriander and then drained on a hot stone. Surprisingly, it was not greasy and very tasty. We finished off with spicy noodles with hot sauce, where slender noodles are tossed in an aromatic sauce of chilli oil and minced pork. We were transported to Sichuan that evening.
Fu Jia Lou, 23 Dongsishitiao Xi, Dongcheng district Tel: +86-10-8403 7831
Nostalgia seems to be part of the scene these days as restaurateurs try to sell comfort dishes in settings that recall old Beijing. Fu Jia Lou's menu has xiangsu heye ya (a crispy lotus duck stuffed with meats) and douzhi (sour bean curd milk) which you can drink with your meal. Don't miss the classic zhajiang mian, thick noodles that you mix yourself at the table with bean paste, cold cucumber slices, soya beans and various greens. Be sure to ask for la you (chilli oil) to spice up the whole affair. Worth a visit for a fun, delectable lunch.