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Yunnan Rainbow

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Fare Unlike many Yunnan restaurants in Hong Kong that serve mainly noodles, this one has a greater variety of traditional Yunnanese dishes.

Ambience Relaxed and cosy, this family-run venue is decorated with colourful tribal paintings and woven tablecloths. The crockery is pretty blue and white porcelain. In the evenings, the restaurateur's young daughter helps out by carrying dishes to the tables.

Cost HK$150 to HK$200.

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Who to bring There are tables for big groups and couples.

Turn-ons The steamed milk cake with Yunnan ham (above) in a light broth, which we had not come across in Hong Kong before, was delicious. Made from sheep's milk, it had a soft tang, while the ham added a salty, savoury flavour. Yunnan cuisine is well known for its use of mushrooms as well as its pork, and we enjoyed the sauteed Boletus rubellus with ham. The cold spicy eggplant was smoky with just a hint of spice. The sour and sweet dried beef was nicely chewy and flavoursome.

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Turn-offs The sauteed shredded potatoes with salty egg yolk was a little too strong for our tastes. A few of the more unusual dishes listed on the menu were not available.

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