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Arun Thai

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Victoria Burrows

Thai restaurants tend to be cheap and cheerful, but now the city has a venue for a much more upscale Land of Smiles experience. Chef Kham Signavong, a well-known figure on the Sydney dining scene, has recently opened a chic new eatery in K11 mall, bringing the best of Royal Thai cuisine to the city. The food is fresh, fiery and finely crafted, with traditional dishes presented at their best. The mieng kham (HK$70), betel leaves with roasted peanuts, pieces of lime, shallot and ginger, makes a perfect start to a meal: the raw ingredients are wrapped up in a betel leaf which you bite through, each flavour delighting the taste buds in turn. The tom yum goong (HK$85, above), that classic Thai soup seasoned with lime juice, lemongrass and chilli, came bursting with flavour - it was some of the best we have tasted. The pla rad prik (HK$188), crispy whole fish served with Arun's chilli sauce, looked attractive, the whole fish was artfully arranged to curve along the plate, and it was succulent and flavoursome. The mixed dessert (HK$120) was another highlight with its combination of sago pudding, pandan layer and pumpkin caramel looking like a paintbox on the platter and each morsel being soft and sweet. Instead of the usual Beer Chang or Singha offered by most Thai eateries, at Arun Thai there is a full wine list, starting at HK$300 for a bottle and HK$62 for a glass, many of which have been chosen to complement spicy food. The restaurant, slick in its palette of black, red and white, is on the ground floor, located near K11's public garden, and at least half of the seating space is alfresco.

G22, K11 mall, 18 Hanoi Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 31881239

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