Uncorked
Looking for a really good white wine that won't get you too tipsy and goes with seafood? Try riesling, one of the world's noble grape varieties.
It's easy to spot riesling on the shelves because it comes in long, slim bottles that are green, blue or brown.
The word 'riesling' means 'hard wood' and refers to the vines, which have strong, hard arms that protect the grapes from the cold. Riesling is grown in the cool climates of New Zealand, the United States, Austria, Australia and, of course, France. But it is in Germany that it is king. The country can be quite chilly so the grapes have trouble ripening but, when they do, they develop elegant, complex flavours and the wines have very low levels of alcohol.
Robert Weil Kiedrich Grafenberg Riesling Spatlese 2008
Riesling doesn't get any better than this. Like high-quality lace, the Kiedrich Grafenberg gives the appearance of sheer ephemeral fragility but is underlain with a ten- sile structure belying its delicacy. Rieslings are among the lightest white wines but this one has a delicate weight and power that could be verging on full-bodied. Endless length with unmistak- able class and elegance. It can be served with a wide range of graceful Cantonese haute-cuisine dishes but is equally at home with spicy fried rice.
Available for HK$539 at Ponti Wine Cellars (tel: 2810 1000)
Braune Juffer Riesling Kabinett, Fritz Haag 2008
A classy Mosel producer, Fritz Haag never disappoints. The Braune Juffer is derived from the family's warmer 'brown' slopes and is laden with minerally citrusy flavours accented with a profusion of delicate white flowers. Pale, lean and racy, this gauze-like wine is ideal with steamed fish.
Available for HK$189 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)
Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese, Dr Loosen 2007
Dr Loosen's wines are always a pleasure to drink, with a Sprite-like candied citrus fruit footprint. This is one of Ernst Loosen's quieter wines, with delicate, pretty fruit and a touch of sweetness deftly offset with a mouth-watering acidity that cleanses the palate. Very good length.
Available for HK$315 at Watson's Wine Cellar
Schloss Johannisberg Gelblack Riesling QbA 2007
If served this wine blind, I would have guessed it is from Alsace, France. Weightier than the others, it has a yang-like masculinity with beeswax and petrol notes, higher alcohol (12.5 per cent) and a bitter note on finish. It's a great match with Hainan chicken.
Available for HK$219 at Jebsen Fine Wines (tel: 2923 8777)
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
