A FAR cry from the surface values of the 1980s and obsession with the body beautiful, 1990s' fashion draws on the harmonious expression of mind, body and soul. Giorgio Armani spring-summer men's wear embraces the quintessential Mediterranean man: a man who reveres the poetry of his roots, while acquiring a universal image. The image of sun-kissed Mediterranean cultures infuses ethnic elements in printed shirts. The clothes sport large vests, light knitwear and long, loose jackets and suggest a man at ease with himself who shrugs off fashion merely for its own sake and chooses stylish clothes in line with his own individuality. Armani's clothes are fun, breaking free from the constraints of past seasons. He uses strong combinations and daring contrasts as the core elements of loosely woven fabrics. Marked waists and slightly bombed hips are used to elongate silhouettes - the Armani man is walking tall this summer. Emporio Armani moves towards freshness in ethnic styles. Jackets have been fitted close to the chest and flared at the bottom. For relaxation, ethnic Spanish, Tunisian, Sardinian, Greek and Turkish prints have been splashed across shirts and knits, swiftly changing his mood. The wave of change continues with Gianni Versace, with care-free clothes of an informal nature. Unlined shirt-jackets mix crumpled cotton and linen to achieve soothing comfort and volume. Insets of netting and perforated materials - such as peccary pig skin - are a summer essential, bringing out a rebellious streak. Suede is also widely used in the collection, great for layering without bulk or weight . Full, comfortable jackets and shirts contrast with the lean line of trousers. Shirts start at $1,100 and go up to $18,150, jackets begin at $3,120 and rise to $21,155, trousers range from $950 to $6,200. Men are experiencing a fashion freedom that switches mood effortlessly from the abstract, playful minute-coloured patterns and prints, to low-key plain tints of white, navy, red and green. Easy-wear T-shirts retail at $1,050 to $6,145. There are lots of new ideas in the footwear department: ankle boots, sandals, shoe-sandals and Roman sandals in soft, cool leathers or canvas are in tune with the general trend towards classical Mediterranean and ethnic influences. Belts vary widely with silver taking the place of the gold used in past seasons and interlacing, perforations, spring clips and military buckles adding an unmistakably masculine feel.