Like a spotty teenager, Californian chardonnay suffered a few ugly breakouts during its adolescence. The region battled the kind of problems that plague teenagers: uncontrolled growth spurts, unsightly braces, embarrassing body changes and too much experimental make- up. Thankfully, ugly ducklings evolve and most Californian chardonnays have matured: height has caught up with breadth; body is in balance with acidity; alcohol in harmony with fruit; and the make-up - the oak and lees - has been artfully applied.
Landmark Overlook chardonnay 2006
Blended from the grapes of three Californian regions, this wine shows its pedigree with a dollop of ripe tropical fruit from Santa Barbara backed by lean racy chardonnay grown in cooler Sonoma County and Monterey vineyards. Savoury and complex, it's well-structured with very good length. Slightly tannic texture demands this wine be served with food. Try it with braised pork belly.
Available for HK$312 at Golden Gate Wine (tel: 2891 8181)
Ferrari-Carano chardonnay 2007, Alexander Valley
Immediately identifiable as chardonnay, with tropical fruit that entices, rather than overwhelms. Well-balanced and supported by clean acidity - probably due to its origin in the cooler hills of Sonoma County's Alexander Valley - which keeps the wine refreshing. Lean style with excellent length. A chardonnay-lover's wine. Try with white-cut chicken (bak chik gai).