BREAKING the rules is what the Hugo Boss man does best. With three labels to choose from - BOSS Hugo Boss, HUGO Hugo Boss, and BALDESSARINI Hugo Boss - there are endless opportunities for creating stunning alternatives this summer. From the classic business look to fashion trends for the man at the top, each product line is easily identifiable. The latest collections reflect a naturalness in mood and form common throughout the labels, drawing on uncomplicated shapes and natural materials in soft, restrained colours. The Boss man is an individualist. The new designs leave room for combinations. Men can be sure that their personality shines through, by combining contrasting fabrics, forms and colours into original outfits. Off-white, beige, sand and dry-soil colours tone with light grey and natural melanges to reflect a casual sophistication. Contrasted with brighter colours influenced by ''colonial'' shades of red-brick, cinnamon, orange, olive and reddish browns, the Boss outfits have endless colour combinations. The 1990s is a new era for men, one which values personality, sensitivity, understatement and spontaneity. The collection places emphasis on all these qualities, offering plenty ofvariety and room to experiment. Calm, natural, and restful, the new casual jackets flaunt convention, revealing a new freedom in personal expression when teamed with waistcoats, ultra-long shirts and round-pressed trousers. Summer focuses on a voluminous look. Jackets and trousers are generally bigger and more comfortable, and shaped to show off rounded shoulders with lower button positioning. A highlight of the season is the easy-going shirt-jacket without lining or fusing. Trousers are round-pressed in cottons, linens and fluent gabardines, costing from $1,450 to $2,200. Suits retail from around $4,900. Cotton and mixed-linen shirts inspired by nature have a lively, rustic look, while city shirts are also more sporty as informal checks and stripes are a key trend. For leisure wear, shirts with stand-up collars are dominated by over-dyed linen in rustic tones of green and blue. Shirts are from $700 to $1,250. Sports coats and trenches are strongly featured. The ''New Classic'' loose-fitting coat with flowing cotton qualities makes a strong masculine fashion statement at $2,950 upwards. Sportswear also concentrates on over-sized clothes in simplified fabrics such as fine-weave canvas, from $650 to $1,250. This year, there is a trend towards crispy cottons and linens. Less high twisted than in past seasons, the fabrics are in keeping with a leisure look. As the garments move towards a natural style, structured fabrics make a comeback. Natural linen and linen tweeds, two-ply cottons, and yarn-dyed fabric play an important role. Leisure wear is dominated by over-dyed linen and plain fabrics. Sweatshirts ($950-$1,250) adopt four main themes: basics, garment-dyed, prints and coast guard. Pick out easy conventional cuts, with quality finishings or more casual, large sweatshirts inspired by jeans wear. Some carry fresh, laid-back stripes; others adopt a coast guard maritime theme. There is a concentrated range of leather wear in limited colours, including over-shirts in lightweight combinations with rubber and nylon. No wardrobe is complete without a pair of jeans. Boss has dark blue denims with a button fly and combination blues that create a washed look, as well as browns, greens and naturals at around $1,000.