The focal point of the evening, and indeed the reason for my having left my rural Umbrian retreat, is a 9pm appointment with Alicia. However, I have arrived early in Perugia, my interest piqued by guidebook descriptions that characterise the central Italian city as a 'hilltop Etruscan treasure trove' and a 'widely disregarded medieval gem'. Most agree that a blend of historical riches and effervescent nightlife creates an alluring ambience.
Towering high above the surrounding plains, its city walls basking in the early-evening summer sunshine, Perugia appears to appraise its territory from a position of omnipotence. Approaching from the north, the visitor is greeted by the imposing travertine blocks that constitute the Etruscan fortifications. The main gate into the city, the Arco Etrusco, was renamed the Arco di Augusto and inscribed with the words 'Augusta Perusia' following the city's near destruction by Augustus Caesar during his defeat of Mark Antony. The arch epitomises Perugia's eclectic architectural heritage: while the Roman arch is set into Etruscan walls, the overlooking loggia was added during the Renaissance - and is contrastingly lighter in style.
Nearby, an imposing aqueduct draws the eye long before you spot the people walking across the top of it. Strolling into town along this aqueduct-cum-street, you feel rather Roman as you look down on terracotta rooftops and flagstone patios. Called Via Acquedotto, it was constructed to supply the city with water in medieval times - now it is an enchanting gateway into Piazza IV Novembre.
Perugia's social hub and architectural epicentre is dominated by the magnificent edifice of one of Italy's greatest public buildings, the Palazzo dei Priori. More than a town hall, the palazzo encompasses a number of absorbing fresco-laden complexes, including the Collegio di Cambio, complete with masterpieces by ubiquitous local Renaissance hero Pietro Vannucci - better known as Perugino. As one might expect, Perugino is also the leading man in the palazzo's Galleria Nazionale dell'Umbria, which presents a history of the region's art.
Outside, the palazzo's ancient steps are a focal point for young Perugians and foreign visitors seeking a shady corner of the piazza.
Tonight, locals and visitors alike will be treated to high-calibre entertainment, courtesy of the Umbria Jazz Festival, which provides Perugia with a multitude of musical acts for about 10 days each July (this year's festival takes place from July 9 to 18). While the likes of Miles Davis, James Brown and Gilberto Gil have packed out the city's ticketed arenas over the festival's 37 years, myriad lesser-known yet talented musicians play on the streets for free.