The world of food has changed a lot since I was growing up in Australia. Back then, squid was used as fish bait and lamb shanks were made into dog food. Then European immigrants helped turn ox tripe into a dish to worship and cuts of meat disdained by 'civilised' people suddenly became expensive. In Hong Kong, these off-cuts have long been appreciated. My favourite parts of fish are the head, especially the soft and sticky parts under the jaw, and the wings, or the 'shoulder', where the fins are attached. Braised or grilled fish heads and wings are found in Japanese, Malaysian and Chinese cuisines. The richness and intensity of garoupa heads and wings seem much closer to those of veal or pork, than to other fish. Delicate white wines can't support these flavours so I prefer elegant, fruit-driven pinot noir. The following wines will work with a range of head and wing dishes that use garoupa, mackerel, salmon or hamachi. The essence here is fruit, rather than oak, and freshness over complicated flavours. Rochford pinot noir 2006, Victoria, Australia This winery is located in Victoria's Macedon Ranges, where the high altitude, cold nights and sunny days create the perfect backdrop for pinot noir. Pretty and wholesome, this Rochford is easy to appreciate and delivers well beyond its humble price tag. It goes well with Cantonese-style braised garoupa head and wings with ginger in a clay pot. The lively acidity gives this wine zingy notes that sing happily with the fish. Available for HK$158 at Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108) Escarpment pinot noir 2008, Martinborough, New Zealand At the 2010 pinot noir conference, in Wellington, a handful of New Zealand pinot noirs were awarded grand cru status but this Escarpment missed out because it's too new a label, even though its maker, Larry McKenna, is one of the godfathers of the nation's wine industry. It's a compelling wine when compared with the expensive (but not necessarily delicious) pinot noirs of Burgundy, France. It's a wonderful match for grilled hamachi head. The wine has so much fruit that even the powerfully succulent hamachi has to bow down to it. Available for HK$228 at ThreeSixty (tel: 2111 4480) Amisfield pinot noir 2006, Central Otago, New Zealand Wild herbs and other exotic aromatics underline this pinot noir as well as the undulating landscape in and around beautiful Otago in southern New Zealand. The area makes many earthy and soulful wines, including this Amisfield 2006, which pairs deliciously with salt and pepper salmon wings with heady chopped chilli to punctuate the fruit and fish notes. Available for HK$269 at Altaya (tel: 2523 1945)