Bitter squash becomes more palatable with age - and I'm not referring to the age of the vegetable, but of the person eating it. My grandmother would've said it's only when you experience the bitterness of life that you learn to appreciate the bitter squash. I'm not sure how true that is; all I know is a vegetable I disliked intensely when I was young is something I have grown to love.
Bitter squash - also called fu gwa, leung gwa, balsam pear or bitter gourd - isn't the prettiest of vegetables: it has wrinkled skin that's either warty and bumpy or jagged and spiky, and a seedy, spongy interior. The skin colour ranges from off-white to deep green. Choose evenly coloured squash that is firm, with no soft spots.
Salting the vegetable draws out some of the bitterness. Cut it in half lengthwise and scoop out and discard the interior, then sprinkle salt liberally over the flesh. Leave for about 15 minutes before rinsing thoroughly.
Bitter squash is considered to be cooling, so is eaten during the summer months.
People who dislike bitter squash should try the Okinawan version. It's very mild compared with the intense vegetable found in Hong Kong, with its light bitterness balanced by a subtle sweetness. It's so mild it can be eaten raw, where its crisp texture is apparent.
Cut the flesh of the raw Okinawan squash into thin pieces and mix with a small amount of thinly sliced white onion. Season to taste with salt, mirin, sugar and a light drizzle of sesame oil. Chill for about 30 minutes before serving.
