HAS the world recession - or if you prefer, Hong Kong's soaring inflation - gone to people's heads? Just ask Andros Panayiotou. ''Yes, the economy has definitely had an effect on the hair trade,'' says the boss of La Coupe. ''Today's clients want value for money, starting with a very good cut. In the old days, many would come back for a trim every two to three weeks. Now they expect that cut to last eight to 10 weeks, so it has to be very versatile. ''You can see the same trend in hair colouring. Before, clients would come in every six weeks. These days it's more like twice a year and that means colours that are extremely subtle and natural-looking, so they don't look obvious when they're growing out.'' The low-maintenance, back to essentials mood of the 90s is perfectly expressed in one of La Coupe's most popular styles for Summer 94: a simple, medium-length bob that can be brushed back and flicked out, or turned under for a fuller face-framing effect. There are no tricks; just expertly cut hair gleaming with health, though it comes with an invaluable tip. ''If you want that natural shine, keep your hair at one length,'' reminds Andros. ''The minute you layer it, putting ends here and there, the gloss goes.'' His own hair is cropped short and classic. Nothing flamboyant for this dapper, energetic man who has been at the forefront of hair fashion in Hong Kong for 21 years - 16 of them spent running his own business - and built up a large, loyal clientele. It includes many of the city's movers and shakers, but not its more conspicuous show-ponies. Waltz into the smart, but unpretentious salon in Prince's Building, expecting to be rushed to head of the queue just because you're a regular in the social columns, and you will get short shrift. ''I would never dream of giving that sort of preferential treatment, especially if it meant someone with a prior appointment had to be kept waiting,'' Andros says firmly. ''It's one of the reasons a former partner and I decided to go our separate ways. As far as I'm concerned, everyone deserves the same welcome.'' The passion for equality began early. Born into a Greek Cypriot family, Andros Panayiotou was 12 when political events changed his life. ''When the British left Cyprus, so did we. My parents lived on the north side, now occupied by Turkey, and had no wish to be victims of what is today called ethnic cleansing. ''Being British subjects, we went to London - tough for my parents who didn't speak any English. I was there for 10 years before moving to Hong Kong.'' Life in the territory has been good; a happy marriage, three sons and La Coupe, still going strong in spite of the punishing commercial rent hikes. ''We had another salon in the Pedder Building but had to give it up recently because of the crazy rent situation. When we moved in seven years ago, it was $12 a square foot. When we left, it was $110. Landlords are not only robbing their tenants, they're holding them hostage. ''Back in 1978 when La Coupe first opened in Hutchison House, we charged $35 for a hair cut and I was making more money then, believe me.'' The salon now charges between $150 and $790, depending on who's doing the cutting, though the work involved is always considered. ''If you have long hair and just want an inch or so trimmed off, I would direct you to a junior stylist - ridiculous to pay top dollar for something so simple. ''We give a 10-day guarantee on any work we do, which I think is probably unique in Hong Kong. There are two things I've always taught my staff: never forget it takes most people a lot of courage to go to a hair salon and that the thing they worry about most, is how they will look when they leave. ''The way you treat staff is equally important. At La Coupe we are like a family and some have been with me for 14 years.'' In that time, there has been a revolution in hair fashion. Not surprisingly, it has paralleled that in the garment industry. ''Nothing is 'in' or 'out' any more and anyone who insists that such-and-such is the big new look is talking nonsense. Face shape, hair texture, lifestyle - those are the important factors. I believe in personalising.'' For those who crave the latest fads, Andros recommends fine ribbons wound through long hair. ''It's decorative and fun, and if you're into labels, you can use packaging ribbon featuring a design name. ''I saw that on a woman the other day - straight off the parcel and into her hair. Pretty clever, I thought.'' S T Y L E by Zelda Cawthorne
