Perfect match
Most of us have tasted (although not necessarily appreciated) Chinese dried seafood, such as salted fish, conpoy (dried scallop) and abalone. Dried shrimp roe is less common. It can only be made when the shrimp are fertile, which takes place for between two and three months a year. The tiny eggs are separated from the body and legs of fresh shrimp before being dried. The result is spectacular, having a wonderful seafood intensity that offers a delicious base note when tossed with egg noodles, moistened with fat (usually lard) and seasoned with soy sauce, which gives the combination direction. To do this simple dish justice, an accompanying wine needs the intense flavour of sun-drenched grapes.
Antinori Guado al Tasso Scalabrone DOC 2007, Tuscany, Italy
The Guado al Tasso is one of Marchesi Antinori's flagship reds from Tuscany. This rose is made with merlot and syrah grapes, which add colour and richness to sangiovese. The slightly perfumed wine works well with shrimp roe and egg noodles because the rich red fruit links up with the savoury shrimp roe while the gentle alcohol cleanses the palate. The wine won't age in the bottle, although this isn't true of all roses.
Available for HK$168 at Rare & Fine Wines (tel: 2522 9797)
Meerlust Rubicon 2005, Stellenbosch, South Africa
This wine has been one of South Africa's best reds for decades and it's even better with new winemaker Chris Williams in charge. The vines are more mature, result- ing in a polished wine that's elegantly fruit-focused. The iconic Rubicon is delicious and has loads of personality - it seems more European than New World. It's perhaps a little on the strong side to be the perfect accompaniment to the noodles but it doesn't have too much of the charred oak that was the thumbprint of the wine's older vintages. The polished savouriness matches the refinement and robustness of the shrimp roe.
Available for HK$358 at Oliver's (tel: 2869 5119)
Yering Station pinot noir 2008, Yarra Valley, Australia
Yarra Valley's Yering Station, together with the iconic Xanadu of the Margaret River, the brilliant Parker Coonawarra Estate and the legendary Mount Langi Ghiran all come under the umbrella of the Rathbone Wine Group. Chief executive and head winemaker Darren Rathbone was recently in Macau for a tasting of his wines. This Yering Station pinot noir is a good match for this dish; the viscous texture of the wine carries the noodles and the pure fruit flavour is further extended by the base notes of the shrimp roe.
Available for HK$198 at Vino 1855 (tel: 2535 9699)
