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How a dress became a cultural symbol

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During the Qing dynasty in the 17th century, women of the Manchu 'Banner People' popularised a loosely fitting one-piece dress known as the qipao (banner quilt), whose simple utilitarian design traced its origins to a nomadic lifestyle.

In the coming centuries, regional variations of the qipao - whose chaste baggy cut concealed the female figure and revealed only the head, hands and toes - became standard wear across China.

Over time, the dress was adapted to hug the body and reveal more by accentuating the gracefulness of the feminine physique.

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Developed in Shanghai at the turn of the 20th century, the dress's modern version featured a slender cut and was prized by fashion-conscious wealthy socialites. Thanks to Western influence, the qipao began to resemble party dresses and ball gowns with low necklines, bell-like sleeves (or no sleeves at all), slit skirts and lace frothing.

During its heyday in the 1930s and 1940s, the qipao came in a wide variety of fabrics with an equal selection of fashion accessories. It became the era's most popular outfit for Chinese women.

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Young Companion Pictorial and other popular magazines contained columns on the latest qipao styles, while hugely popular calendar posters featured fetching models wearing trendy versions. Not to be outdone, celebrated film stars such as Hu Die and Ruan Lingyu regularly appeared in chic qipao outfits, setting versatile fashion trends.

The prim fashion tastes of communism triggered a decline in the dress's popularity across the mainland after the 1950s, and before long the qipao completely disappeared from use.

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