208 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan Tel: 2549 0208 Open: Monday-Friday noon-3pm; Monday-Saturday 6pm-midnight; Saturday-Sunday, 10am to 4pm Cuisine: rustic Italian Price: about HK$500, minus drinks and service charge. Ambience: a chic two-storey spot at the far western end of Hollywood Road, whose chef hails from Babbo, one of New York's finest odes to high-end Italian. The casual indoor-outdoor bar zone downstairs (right) is comfortable enough to settle into all night. Upstairs, the formal dining area is a smart mix of large white wall tiles with a blue chinoiserie motif that go well with mid-century modern-inspired furniture. Pros: staff are friendly and will try to accommodate on-the-spot requests for a table in the dining room. An extensive bar menu is heavy on the wood-fired pizzas. There's a sophisticated choice of cocktails (the 208 Bronx takes the martini a step forward with a mix of gin, bianco vermouth, orange bitters, fresh orange and lemon; HK$90) and the wine list is helpfully broken into categories such as round/generous and structured/powerful. Wines by the glass range from HK$60 to HK$160. Cons: the dining room looks fabulous but it's in need of noise dampeners - all those hard surfaces make it difficult to have a clear conversation across the table. The phone reservation system is getting worse as the restaurant gets busier. Despite leaving a reservation request days in advance and following up with several more calls, we finally received a call-back 15 minutes before our requested time (a little too late for our group). Another time we didn't even get a return call. And even though the kitchen prides itself on its pizzas, our soggy marina con acciughe (HK$148) tasted more of charcoal than tomato, garlic and anchovies. Recommended dishes: the pomodori uovo (poached egg, pork sausage and pecorino romano on olive oil soaked bread; HK$128) is a spicy palate starter, best shared to avoid filling up before the main event. Inventive pastas make it difficult to choose but the spaghetti bottarga (HK$168) is a satisfying dry dish with flecks of salty cured fish roe, offset by fresh parsley and chilli. The citrus-oregano marinated chicken (HK$218, top) is juicy, with a perfectly crispy skin finished with mildly sweet balsamic onions and broccollini. What else? The restaurant sits at the top of Possession Street.