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Bespoke clothing is the measure of a man

3-MIN READ3-MIN
SCMP Reporter

When it comes to fashion and style, there are not a lot of areas where men can truly indulge or express themselves. Sure, there are the watches, neckties that sometimes border on the comical and cufflinks that are more kitsch than statement makers. You can argue that there are men who manage to express themselves nonetheless, but they often veer towards the more flamboyant. But for the truly stylish and elegant gentleman, the type who wears impeccably cut grey suits, a discreet Cartier tank watch and well-polished shoes, he has very limited options to explore.

It is for this reason that men should look into made-to-measure clothing. Made-to-measure (MTM) means that a garment is made using a client's measurements and specifications based on an already existing house pattern.

I know this may sound like old news to men in Hong Kong, who are spoiled for choice due to the legion of local tailors. But having been to a number of tailors in Central, there hasn't been one that truly impressed me, except Ascot Chang.

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I personally think that for a true made-to-measure experience one should seek out the English and Italian tailors, as they are the masters of this craft. While women go to Paris for haute couture, men go to Savile Row and Naples for custom-made suits. What gives the English and Italian tailors the edge is that they have a better understanding of modern fit - local tailors have yet to make the transition from boxy-shaped shirts and jackets and loose trouser legs. European tailors also have access to a better selection of fabrics. Some, such as Ermenegildo Zegna, even produce their own.

As it is Ermenegildo Zegna's centennial year, its MTM service now offers a reissue of the very first fabric produced in its mill, albeit in a lighter version, plus the other 450 fabrics it has in stock.

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There are three suit styles in its MTM service: Roma - elegant and tailored with single pleated trousers; Milano - slim and fitted for the modern man; and Couture - something more traditional. A customised suit from Ermengildo Zegna takes about four to six weeks to complete and usually requires two fittings.

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