This season, casual dressing has gone back to past, with the grungy vibe of the 1990s given a contemporary twist. A return to chunky knits, camel and brown also reflects the new minimalist simplicity that has returned to the runways. Other popular themes include military jackets, androgynous looks and evergreen denim, while materials such as felt, fur, sheepskin, cashmere and leather are also in vogue. Zadig & Voltaire's latest collection revisits a number of themes dear to founder Thierry Gillier's heart. Developed by designers Cecilia Bonstrom and Carol Gerland, the collection takes its inspiration from the androgynous world of rock with bohemian references and a hint of irreverence. In the deluxe collection, denim also plays a central role, as do luxurious cashmere and accessories. Curious about music and new talent, Zadig & Voltaire enjoys using rock icons. This season is no exception, with open-front, long-sleeved cardigans, printed vests and jeans combined with a must-have leather jacket, or for a more casual look - a sheepskin jacket. In homage to the late Kurt Cobain, the lead singer of Nirvana, Zadig & Voltaire has taken the 1990s grunge dress code and given it a twist, creating an offbeat look. Floral prints - delicate and feminine on blouses and dresses, inspired by the Victorians - marry effortlessly with a severe khaki officer's jacket or a fleecy hood for a younger look. Wintry grunge is also a feature of the collection at Replay. Denim is central to Replay's relaxed looks, with quilted denim jackets embellished with patches or denim miniskirts. Colour washes are mostly dark with a strong vintage feel. Men's jeans are rugged, with labels and patches referencing the return to hand-crafting. Cuts are straight, with a loose leg and crutch and a slightly higher waist. Replay's women's denim is also mostly dark, with skinny-fit jeans the must-haves. These have been extended to leggings in superstretch denim and a boyfit that is loose-fitting and more comfortable. For men and women, tops are form-fitting and fabrics are mountain-inspired with unusual matches - classic fabrics are teamed with technical fabrics, while knitwear, with jacquard maxi-pullovers, features heavily. Colours are those you would see in the mountains: infantry green, brown, graphite, petroleum, titanium, purple and optical white evoke snow-covered peaks. For a less grungy look, Zadig & Voltaire has authentic military pieces for men and women: officers' jackets with lots of pockets, long parkas with fur-trimmed hoods, ribbed jumpers and aviator jackets. Urban blacks and greys soften the military look, styled with brass studs or buttons on the cuffs. And because no sailor's wardrobe is complete without a good dose of stripes, there are also classic sailor tops. Androgyny is also a recurring theme at Zadig & Voltaire. The tailored cut of a jacket or coat, or severely cut suit-trousers combined with the apparent simplicity of a man's shirt, make the look for women ambiguous and androgynous. The look is similar for men: an Egyptian cotton shirt, perfectly cut jeans and a three-quarter-length jacket in pure virgin wool. At Kookai, the collection features fresh, contemporary looks with form-fitting lines that accentuate a woman's body. The silhouette here focuses on reworked shoulders, narrow waistlines and long and lean mini-dresses and miniskirts. Ultrafeminine styles cling to the body and come with sheer and transparent panels, and plunging necklines for subtle sex appeal. Inspired by the perfect traveller's wardrobe, the Superposing collection is an eclectic mix of cultural references and prints to create a modern, bohemian look. Vintage-style pieces are worn in a modern way, while current trends are represented in drop-crotch trousers, form-fitting dresses, sporty details on sweatshirt tops and low-riding skirts. A combination of offbeat prints and patterns, including Japanese kimono prints and jacquard patchwork, create a kaleidoscopic look.