Although very much still a steakhouse, Prime keeps the atmosphere light with the clean lines of its minimalist, grey leather armchairs, wood-panelled walls and unfussy furnishings. It also has sweeping views of Civic Square and its palm trees. The steakhouse is part of the Dining Concepts group, which includes the equally good BLT Steak in Tsim Sha Tsui; the two venues are in fact strikingly similar. Both share a menu that features top quality meat complemented with the usual steakhouse suspects, such as soups, salads (main), seafood platters and burgers, but given a contemporary and more interesting touch. We tried the hamachi with citrus soy avocado and chilli (HK$138), which was surprisingly full-flavoured; we tapped the sauce off most chunks of the yellowtail as it overpowered the fish. The 14-ounce USDA tenderloin chateaubriand (HK$498) serves two and was an ideal texture - easy to cut without being too rich in fat. It was heavily seasoned on the crust of the meat but, being a thick cut, it worked well. The desserts were just what we needed after such a rich meal: the strawberry sundae with fresh mint ice cream (HK$78) looked summery and light, and was a good blend of fresh and sweet flavours. The chocolate coconut layer cake with amaretto ice cream (HK$78) was another treat with its layers of creamy coconut and nutty ice cream. There is a decent wine list suitably heavy on the reds, priced from HK$270 for a Malbec to 1995 Chateaux Mouton Rothschild at HK$9,990. The restaurant also stocks bourbons, grappa, dessert wines, port, sherry, cognac and other digestifs.
Shop R008, 3/F, Rooftop Garden, Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, West Kowloon, 2311 3108
