A refreshing change from the sleek and uber-stylish venues in Central, this unpretentious and cosy eatery, with its warm yellow walls, vintage posters and small wooden tables, transports diners to rural Provence. The presentation of some of the dishes is equally quaint: the starter of pan-seared goat cheese and almond with onion jam (HK$90, right), two subtly flavoured and slightly warmed spheres of creamy cheese served with sweet, rich relish and bread, comes with side salad served in a small terracotta plant pot. But while the atmosphere evokes the feeling of dining at a friend's country home, the food is far from amateur. Diners are in the capable hands of chef Didier Rochat, former head chef at the now closed Cafe des Artistes and La Brasserie in the Marco Polo hotel. Chef Rochat cooks specialities from southern France, and imports seasonal delicacies that include venison and French beef, which is hard to find locally. From the specials list, we tried the lentil and spinach soup (HK$55) which, although slightly over-seasoned, was delicious, and so was the fish of the day, sea bass in Provencal style (HK$165), which was braised to retain the fish's natural flavours and succulence. The stewed rabbit with mustard, mushrooms and potatoes (HK$160, below left) was sprinkled with rosemary, basil and black olives and was a treat: rabbit meat tends to be dry and stringy, but the rich and creamy sauce ensured each bite remained moist. The Provencal flower pollen creme brulee (HK$75) and the frozen nougat, confied (slow cooked) fruits, honey and lavender (HK$70) were both delicate and not overly sweet. Diners can complement their meal with a choice of 30 French wines or a glass of port; many diners choose to enjoy drinks or dinner al fresco on the amber and terracotta tiles decorating the steps of charming Mee Lun Street. The service needs attention - staff seemed to have little knowledge of the dishes - but this will surely be worked out in time.
3 Mee Lun Street, Central, 2217 3389
