Fresh squid is available almost year-round in Hong Kong. Sweet and succulent, squid has a reputation for being tough and rubbery if overcooked. The main culprit is the thin membrane inside the squid's body - when cleaning out the cavity, pull off as much of the membrane as possible. In many coastal communities in Asia, fresh seafood is typically combined with chilli and ginger. The chilli enhances the sweetness of the seafood and the ginger takes away the fishi- ness. To complement steamed squid with ginger and chilli, a drink needs purity and richness. Restraint and refinement are keys to the perfect match. Yoshinogawa Daiginjo sake, Niigata, Japan This sake goes beautifully with the squid dish. The lovely rice spirit travels parallel to the squid's sweetness and layers and extends the flavours. The heady, fresh and high-toned sake is lifted further on the nose and palate by the fragrant ginger, while the chilli encapsulates the whole com- bination, giving it more definition and balancing well with the 15 per cent alcohol. For a completely different sensation, add a sprinkling of toasted white sesame seeds to the squid. Available for HK$298 at Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108) Wooing Tree Blondie pinot noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand Central Otago has been making a name for itself with outstanding and regionally defined pinot noirs that are substantially more affordable than those from Burgundy, and very different. Subtle sub-regional variations and the passionate winemakers of Central Otago give it an advantage over many other pinot-growing areas of the world. This Blondie comes from the winery that won the Cathay Pacific Hong Kong International Wine and Spirit Competition trophy for best new-world pinot. Blondie, though, isn't typical; it's a white pinot, made from young grapes that have minimal skin contact after being pressed. The result is pure and strawberry-like. It's pinot at its naked best and a good match with the squid or any seafood combined with chilli and ginger. It sets a rounded platform for the sweet seafood and heady aromatics. The softness of the wine lengthens the whole combination and exaggerates the squid's sweetness. Available for HK$240 at At Style Wine (tel: 6593 1859) Yalumba Y Series viognier 2008 This wine is one of my favourites and it's probably the best-value viognier in the world - or at least in Hong Kong. Totally delicious, it's a great white wine for cooler days and goes well with the squid dish. The perfume, substantial fruit weight and roundness of the wine, wraps around the squid but leaves some holes for the ginger and chilli to peek through. This stunning viognier is also delicious with grilled squid served with Thai-flavoured chilli sauce. Available for HK$106 at Fine Vintage