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Perfect match

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Fresh squid is available almost year-round in Hong Kong. Sweet and succulent, squid has a reputation for being tough and rubbery if overcooked. The main culprit is the thin membrane inside the squid's body - when cleaning out the cavity, pull off as much of the membrane as possible.

In many coastal communities in Asia, fresh seafood is typically combined with chilli and ginger. The chilli enhances the sweetness of the seafood and the ginger takes away the fishi- ness. To complement steamed squid with ginger and chilli, a drink needs purity and richness. Restraint and refinement are keys to the perfect match.

Yoshinogawa Daiginjo sake, Niigata, Japan

This sake goes beautifully with the squid dish. The lovely rice spirit travels parallel to the squid's sweetness and layers and extends the flavours. The heady, fresh and high-toned sake is lifted further on the nose and palate by the fragrant ginger, while the chilli encapsulates the whole com- bination, giving it more definition and balancing well with the 15 per cent alcohol. For a completely different sensation, add a sprinkling of toasted white sesame seeds to the squid.

Available for HK$298 at Fine Vintage (tel: 2896 6108)

Wooing Tree Blondie pinot noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand

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