Ambience: totally cool. It's a spectacular two-level space that's airy and comfortable. You enter the bar (called Lily) on the sixth floor and walk down the stairs into the restaurant (called Bloom), past a raw bar with a gleaming display of fresh seafood. The intricate details of both the bar and restaurant make it visually interesting.

Pros: the waiters were attentive, the food - for the most part - was good and many of the prices are surprisingly reasonable.

Cons: some of the tables are very close together. The pineapple polenta upside-down cake (HK$78) needed more pineapple and brandied butterscotch.

Recommended dishes: roasted bone marrow (HK$85, right) was one of the best versions of this dish I've tasted. The glistening marrow, which I scooped out of the bones and spread on sliced grilled bread before sprinkling it with sea salt, was soft and melting. The tart salad perched on top of the bones and the sliced wine-infused grapes on the plate did a great job of cutting the richness of the marrow. My guest's onion soup (HK$85) was a huge portion of deeply flavoured broth that perfectly melded beef stock and slowly cooked onions. She was humming happily over her main course of al dente homemade pappardelle with bolognaise made with pork, beef and lamb (HK$125). I was really looking forward to the Iberico pork chop (HK$276, above) part of my main course, but it was just a little overcooked and slightly tough. But the accompanying ribs were delicious, with tender, smoky meat coated in a sticky, light, balanced sauce. We also ordered several side dishes (HK$55 each), all of which we enjoyed: grilled asparagus with orange mascarpone, creamy mac and cheese, and polenta with cherry tomatoes and wild mushrooms.

What else? Even if you don't need to, pay a visit to the unisex bathrooms, which, like the rest of Lily and Bloom, are beautifully designed with an ultra-cool edginess.