Goose liver doesn't have to be foie gras d'oie to be delicious. The liver of ordinary geese is succulent, decadent and rich. In Chiu Chow cooking, the master stock that all the other goose parts are simmered in does wonders for the livers. Flavoured with star anise, cinnamon, cloves and peppercorns, the stock gains intensity if used over time, from all the meat cooked in it. A drink to accompany Chiu Chow goose liver needs to bring freshness to the hefty but satisfying combination. Angular tannins from unripe grapes will cause bitterness with the goose liver and any residual sugar sweetness would distract from the liver's gamey sweetness.
Bridge Pa Louis Syrah 2005 and 2006, Hawke's Bay, New Zealand
Much noise is being made about the syrah grape and it's wonderful to see that most Hawke's Bay winemakers are not simply trying to copy France's typical Rhone Valley style. This Bridge Pa syrah is perfumed and offers a lot of heightened spicy notes. It's nothing like Australian shiraz, even though the two are separated by only a narrow stretch of water. This wine is a fine complement to Chiu Chow goose liver, its silky texture caressing the food from the beginning to the end of the palate. The perfumed syrah spice seamlessly melts into the Chiu Chow master stock while the wine's tannins punctuate and cleanse the palate.
Available for HK$320 at At Style Wine (tel: 6593 1859)
Tsingtao Beer, China
The simple and irresistibly refreshing flavours of Tsingtao are extremely enjoyable with the savoury goose livers. The beer's fizzy creaminess stimulates the palate and melts into the liver and the minerally, savoury hoppiness sets up a platform for the spicy Chiu Chow master stock.