France continues to be the largest supplier of wines to Hong Kong, and the town's connoisseurs have a high regard for those of Bordeaux. However, recent years have seen a broadening of tastes and a greater interest being taken in the styles of other regions. Visitors to the French section of the fair can sample wines from all over the country and gain a better idea of their character and diversity. Helping to guide them will be French wine critics Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve, who, for the second year running, have organised Le Grand Tasting - a selection of exhibitors of high quality, grouped together in Hall 3G and listed in a pamphlet, along with some background information on the chateaux and French wine. 'The French pavilion exhibitors are mainly merchants dealing in wines from different producers, whereas Le Grand Tasting ones are genuine growers,' says Denis Stevens, the Hong Kong Trade Development Council-appointed agent for France. Bettane and Desseauve have opted for diversity in choosing their chateaux and winemakers. 'The French vineyard is unique and a real national asset,' the experts say. 'No other country can offer so many different styles of wine. From Bordeaux's straightness and elegance, through Burgundy's aromatic finesse to the Rh?ne Valley's outstanding character; from Champagne's vividness through our sweet wines' unctuousness, to the Loire Valley's freshness and Alsace's extravagance. Each of them may look like a particular wine from another country, but you simply can't get them all in the same place anywhere but France.' Among the highlights selected for inclusion in Le Grand Tasting are La Cave des Vignerons de Pfaffenheim, a supplier of wines from Alsace; A & R Olivier from Burgundy, with wines made by the acclaimed producer Antoine Olivier; from the same region are wine merchants Jean-Luc and Paul Aegerter; and from Champagne, Laurent-Perrier which will offer its Grand Si?cle prestige cuv?e, which blends complementary wines from the grand marque's most successful vintage years. Pannier and Taittinger Champagnes will also be present. From Languedoc-Rousillon comes the wines of Chateau de Caraguilhes, Chateau Mourgues du Gres, Domaine d'Aigues Belles, and Mas du Soleilla; from the Loire Valley is Domaine Albane, where winemaker Bertrand Minchin makes reds and whites known for their structure and elegance; and from Provence the dry ros?s made at Chateau de Pibarnon and by Sacha Lichine at Chateau D'Esclans. Visitors from the Rhone Valley include Chapoutier, Domaine Gourt de Mautens and Daumen Pere & Fils at Domaine de la Vieille Julienne. As expected, Bordeaux is strongly represented with Chateau Hostens-Picant, Chateau Lassegue, Chateau Phelan Segur, Chateau Serilhan, and Chateau Valandraud, where the pioneering 'garagiste' winemaker Jean-Luc Thunevin presides. Chateau Phelan Segur was reclassified in the 2003 Cru Bourgeois reclassification as one of nine 'Cru Bourgeois exceptionnels', and, as managing director Veronique Dausse explains, in recent years it has gone from strength to strength. 'The wines of the estate are carefully produced from handpicked cabernet sauvignon and merlot grapes, aged in French oak and artfully blended with Michel Rolland's help. The results are some of the finest wines of St Estephe, expressing their utmost elegance when ageing,' she notes. One chateau in Provence has connections to high political office. Chateau de Saint Martin's Cuv?e Grande Reserve Rouge, a blend of cabernet sauvignon, grenache, syrah, and mourvedre, has the distinction of supplying wines to the French president. This wine is available at Organic Gardens International's booth. A number of useful products for the wine connoisseur will be shown, including Le Nez du Vin - a wine aroma identification kit created by French wine expert Jean Lenoir. It consists of a set of vials containing typical wine-associated scents, and is now well-established as an important wine education tool.