35 Ship Street, Wan Chai Tel: 2528 5818 Open: Monday-Saturday noon-2.30pm, 6.30pm-10.30pm (last order) Cuisine: British Price: about HK$300 for a three-course dinner without drinks and the service charge. Ambience: comfortable and unpretentious, with a short menu and even shorter wine list. The restaurant is small and long, with dark floors and chairs, and white walls and tablecloths. Only a few other tables were occupied on the night of our visit, including a group of ladies having a hen's night. Pros: the staff are friendly and eager to please. The owner greeted us at the door with a smile and a warm welcome, and was happy to talk about the food. This is rib-sticking food, with much of it served in large portions. Cons: although my hard-to-please English guest was impressed with the meal, he complained that the batter on the petite fish and chips (HK$78) was slightly heavy, although he ate most of the fried fresh mackerel and all the chips. Recommended dishes: duck liver and duck egg with brioche toast and foie gras sauce (HK$98, above left) wasn't the lightest starter, but it was delicious nevertheless. The liver was seared then embedded in the perfectly cooked egg that had a deep orange, runny yolk. My guest's calf's liver (HK$168) looked overcooked for my tastes - there wasn't even a hint of pink at the centre of the slices, but it was moist and tender. It was served with caramelised apple, parsnip chips and soft polenta. 'Not exactly bangers and mash' (HK$142) was a huge portion of two long crepinettes (sausage mixture wrapped in caul fat) that were well-seasoned and juicy, served with roughly mashed potatoes flavoured with chives and scallions. The owner came to our table to take our dessert order, and after hearing him reel off a list of typically English desserts, I asked if he served them with Bird's custard. He was horrified - thankfully, his quest for authenticity doesn't go that far. Lemon tart (HK$48, left) had a light, tart filling in a slightly underbaked crust. My guest loved the heavier, sticky toffy pudding (HK$48). What else? At lunch, they offer a two-course set meal for HK$88 plus 10 per cent (and HK$30 for dessert) with dishes such as roasted pork belly salad with caramelised plums.