That old 'white wine with white meat' rule doesn't apply in this part of the world. There are endless ways to cook chicken and not all of them result in a dish that matches white wine. Take crispy chicken marinated with nam yu (red fermented beancurd paste), for instance. This Cantonese classic is difficult to do well - the skin should be crisp but not oily and the meat moist. The aroma is heady and seductive, with a nutty richness and sweet depth. A wine to accompany this dish should contain fruit that is either level and mature or fresh and vibrant.
Wooing Tree Blondie pinot noir 2009, Central Otago, New Zealand
More strawberry blond than bottle blond in colour, this is pinot noir at its best. It's essentially a rose made from black pinot noir grapes; the juice has just enough contact with the grape skins to add a bit of colour. The vibrant fruit marries nicely with the richness of the nam yu and the succulence of the chicken. And, unlike other roses, it's welcomingly dry.
Misha's Vineyard The High Note pinot noir 2008, Central Otago
New Zealand's pinot noir superman, Olly Masters (formerly of Ata Rangi), has shaken up his new project, Misha's Vineyard. This wine is supple and silky, with lovely savoury tones. It's a good match with the crispy chicken skin because the nam yu soaks up the high-quality oak, giving it a strong base and widening the flavour range. The wine's seductive fragrance is further lifted by the deep-fried chicken notes.
