Mark Ladner

How has life changed since the four-star review? 'I've been suffering unmanageable anxiety attacks. In the week leading up to the review, I was nervous but I had a good dialogue with [New York Times reviewer] Sam Sifton. I expected a release when the review came out but I felt worse. It's satisfying to be recognised but there's so much pressure. I took the job as a challenge. I wasn't motivated by getting stars from Michelin or the New York Times.'

Are you enjoying your time in Hong Kong as a guest chef? 'I've never cooked outside the United States before and this is my first guest-chef stint. I took the offer from Joia [Elements Mall, Tsim Sha Tsui] because I wanted to come to Hong Kong and I was honoured to be asked to participate in the Italian Cuisine World Summit [held in Hong Kong this month], even though I'm not Italian. Chef Alessandro [Angelini] and the staff at Joia have been so hospitable but you have to figure out how their kitchen works, where to get what, who to talk to.'

What sort of food features in your new book, Molto Gusto? 'Casual, inexpensive, straightforward food - antipasti, salumi [cured meats], fish. I'm excited about it because it's 'flexitarian' cuisine - vegetable-based, where the protein is a condiment. It's what we do in the restaurant. Nothing involves more than five ingredients and [most dishes have] three steps or less. It's healthy, fast and real. And you can substitute ingredients. If you don't have green peas you can use green beans instead.'

What countries do you visit for food? 'I visit Italy three times a year. I some- times go to Michelin-starred places but I usually wish I'd gone to a trattoria. I find the most inspiration in traditional styles, where the food almost speaks to you; where it's clear care has been taken. I haven't been to Japan yet but I'm obsessed with izakaya [Japanese pubs that serve small plates of food] - I eat [that type of food] three times a week. It's not a trend yet but it's going to be.'

What do you think of celebrity chefs? 'The celebrity-chef thing is absurd. Being on television and being a chef require different skills. Just because you can cook doesn't mean you're good on TV. Nigella [Lawson] is a natural. She's beautiful and nice, and her cooking has warmth. Giada [de Laurentiis] really rocks the push-up bra.'