Cooking a big batch of fried chicken for a party this year, I used two heavy black cast-iron pans from the same manufacturer, added the same amount of oil and set the pans over two burners set at the same heat. The chicken in one pan was pale and flaccid; in the other, it was crusty and deep golden brown.
When I mentioned this to a guest, he asked if one of the pans was new. He'd spotted it right away - the chicken with the 'undeveloped' crust was fried in the newer pan.
Cast-iron pans are prized by cooks because they retain heat and spread it evenly, without hot spots. There are two basic types: regular and enamelled. The latter is coated with an impermeable glaze that prevents rusting and is made by the likes of Le Creuset and Staub. The pans are very heavy and the coating chips if banged hard against metal, but they're wonderful for slow-cooked dishes. Manufacturers recommend they be used over flames no higher than medium.
Regular cast iron can be light or heavy, depending on the thickness of the metal. These pans are practically indestructible and can be heated over a high flame until they smoke, which means they're very good for searing meats. I have several cast-iron pans: a wok from China; light crepe pans from France; and two heavy skillets from the United States.
Regular cast iron rusts, however, unless it is 'seasoned'. When you get a cast-iron pan, scrub it with hot water and detergent, then heat it over a flame until dry. Rub cooking oil into the hot metal and let it cool, then start cooking with it. With use, the metal absorbs oil, develops a patina and eventually becomes non-stick. As I found out when frying the chicken, a new pan doesn't give the same results.
Many people say you shouldn't use detergent to wash cast iron after its initial cleaning. I do but only when the pan is very oily, and even then I only use a tiny amount of detergent. After each wash, it needs to be heated until dry, oiled and allowed to cool.
