Uncorked
Pinot gris is a teenage mutant grape that appeared in Europe in the Middle Ages. Most scientists agree that pinot gris - a white wine variety - morphed from pinot noir, which accounts for the blue-greyish cast found on the skin of its grapes. The word 'gris' means 'grey' in French (in Italy, the wine is known as pinot grigio).
While pinot grigio and pinot gris are the same grape variety, France and Italy produce this white wine in distinctly different styles. Pinot gris is primarily from Alsace and is significantly fuller, rounder and fruitier than northern Italy's lean, minerally and bracing pinot grigio. New world producers followed suit, choosing to use the varietal name that most resembled their style, depending on where and under what conditions the grape was grown. In the United States, most Californian makers produce simple, minerally, light styles labelled pinot grigio whereas the riper peachy, melon and pear flavours being produced by Oregon winemakers are labelled pinot gris.
New Zealand shows little of this schizophrenia, with most wineries producing intense, luscious, full-flavoured pinot gris that is now the third-most planted white-wine variety in the country, following chardonnay and sauvignon blanc.
Escarpment Vineyards pinot gris 2008, Martinborough, New Zealand
Soft, ripe yellow apples and gentle spice. Apple pie and peach spice coat the palate with round, generous texture. Flavoursome and lengthy, with excellent balance.
Available for HK$235 at ThreeSixty (tel: 2111 4480)
Palliser Estate pinot gris 2008, Martinborough
Pretty, aromatic fruit, lemony, with oak notes. Medium weight, smoky palate; firm acidity with power, focus and intensity.
Available for HK$150 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)
Waitiri Creek pinot gris 2008, Central Otago, New Zealand
Muted yellow plums, floral notes, crisp, quiet and plush. This pinot gris is an easy seafood match.
Available for HK$190 at Limestone Coast Wines (tel: 2817 1625)
Mt Difficulty Wines pinot gris 2008, Central Otago
Few difficulties here. Slight smoky and matchstick hints supported by citrussy grapefruit with a minerally restraint reminiscent of pinot grigio. Full palate, with fine acidity and a clean, fresh finish - if a touch short.
Available for HK$208 at Montrose Fine Wines (tel: 2555 8877)
Neudorf Moutere pinot gris 2008, Nelson, New Zealand
Quiet pear, gentle spice, lemon biscuit notes, this medium-weight wine finishes with a sweet flourish.
Available for HK$198 at Watson's Wine Cellar
Debra Meiburg is a master of wine
