A 20-minute ferry ride from the mainland, Miyajima is an entirely different world. The boat ride takes us past one of Japan's most iconic images: the vermillion tori (gate) of Itsukushima, which rises majestically out of the water at high tide, but can be walked to across mudflats at low tide.

Near the tori is the floating shrine of Itsukushima-jina, a brightly painted and ornately carved structure that stages noh (musical drama) performances in the late afternoon.

The island celebrates the arrival of autumn and the rice harvest in inimitable fashion, and the shrine is where it all begins. A two-metre rice spoon is given a Shinto blessing and residents dressed in bright yukata parade around the island, fuelled by stops for freshly grilled oysters and beer. Families crowd around to watch and join in the procession - the children brandish their own big rice spoons and yell themselves hoarse. Shop owners compete good-naturedly for customers, offering their excellent maple-leaf biscuits. Shouts of wasshoi! (lift!) echo through the island as the spoon is waved at shops to ensure continued good business.

After lunch I take a short walk and lose myself in the lush wonderland of the Misen Primeval Forest, where deer roam wild.

The forest marks the start of three fine walks up Misen mountain. The Momijidani route is the steepest and shortest, taking only two hours. For visitors who are short of time (or breath), a cable car runs to the top in 20 minutes. In autumn, the peak offers a 360-degree view of the red and gold foliage. Go early or late in the day to escape the crowds.

Located near the top of the mountain is the Reikado Hall where Kobo Dashi, the ninth-century mystic who brought Buddhism to Japan, meditated for 100 days on his return from China. A holy fire is said to have been kept burning since then and legend has it that water boiled on the fire will provide instant happiness.

Farther north lies the windswept isle of Naoshima, which hosts the annual Setouchi modern art festival with neighbouring islands. The festival began as a experiment to revitalise the islands' flagging economies and has become a big attraction, providing a unique interplay between contemporary art, architecture and nature.

Giant pumpkins created by artist Yayoi Kusuma are dotted throughout the surreal landscape, alongside galleries whose collections range from internationally acclaimed modern Korean installation artist, Lee Ufan, to Impressionist masters such as Monet. Naoshima is also home to the kitsch 007 Museum - part of a local effort to have a Bond film shot on the island.

Back on Honshu, I visit the tiny town of Kurashiki, a thriving commercial hub since medieval times. First impressions are underwhelming, but a stroll up the main street will take you to some of the most picturesque and well-preserved streets of the Edo period.

Kurashiki's historical district is filled with cobbled streets where young women in kimonos pose for photographs. But the biggest draw in Kurashiki is the Ohara Museum of Art, Japan's first privately owned gallery. The Ohara contains a range of works by artists such as Monet, Gauguin, Picasso and El Greco.

Kurashiki also maintains its Shinto traditions - especially its raucous celebrations for autumn. Accompanied by banging drums, shouting and singing, processions of townspeople dressed in traditional clothing, divided by gender, carry a male and female effigy in palanquins and challenge one another - like a friendly dance-off.

Adding to the mayhem are su-inkyo dancers - young men in grandpa masks who 'bless' the townsfolk by tapping them on the head, or if they're lucky, another part of their anatomy. The children don't miss out either; dressed up as pointy-nosed, red-faced, buck-toothed devils, they run around scaring toddlers and having the time of their lives.

Turning to leave, I feel a tap on my head - a laughing 'grandpa' has whacked me with a fan and, indeed, I feel blessed to be here.

Where to go

Getting there: Cathay Pacific, Dragonair and JAL fly from Hong Kong to Hiroshima several times a week. The JR Rail Pass offers all-inclusive train and ferry travel for up to 14 days.

Dining: Miyajima is known for its juicy oysters. As you travel to the island, keep an eye out for the floating barges that grow these fist-sized beauties. After working up a sweat traipsing around the island, washing a couple down with an ice-cold beer is the perfect pick-me-up.

In Kurashiki, look for the anago oshizushi - the eel sushi is a delicate speciality served in several local restaurants.

While on Naoshima, check out the elegant Benesse gallery, which houses a funky cafe with a basic but delicious menu, including an extraordinary black squid ink Japanese curry. Those preferring more traditional fare should try its on-site restaurant.

If you're using Hiroshima as your base, try Tosho for an excellent kaiseki dinner. It has a private room looking onto a beautifully landscaped courtyard with a koi pond and a waterfall. The 3,000 yen (HK$280) set meal is a bargain.

Accommodation: for those based in Hiroshima, Hotel Active is a conveniently located, Japanese-style business hotel. For a more remote getaway, Benesse House on Naoshima is the perfect place to start an art pilgrimage.