For more than a century, Rioja has reigned unopposed as Spain's finest wine region, though now Priorato and Ribera del Duero are mounting challenges. White and rose wines are produced in this strip of vineyards, which measures about twice the length of Hong Kong Island, but the region's reputation is built almost entirely on reds.
By the 1860s, much of France was battling vineyard moulds and parasites, and to satisfy demand, many merchants began to source wine from Rioja. Within a generation, vineyard plantings grew by 16,000 hectares.
Rioja is often referred to as Spain's Bordeaux but its wines are closer to those of Burgundy. Master of wine students quickly learn to consider Italy's barolo or France's burgundy when faced with the medium ruby colour and soft red-fruit palates of rioja. The ultimate clue to identifying wine from Rioja comes from the region's affection for American oak barrels, which confer distinctive vanilla notes as opposed to the spicy clove and cinnamon flavours proffered by French oak.
As tempranillo - Rioja's primary blending grape - is burdened with recalcitrant tannins, Riojan producers age their red wine longer than those of any other region in the world, to tame its unruly nature. In 1983, one producer released its wine 41 years after the grapes were harvested. As a result, one can generally count on rioja to have a mature and softened palate. New-age winemakers, though, are veering away from these long ageing periods and many are beginning to experiment with French oak barrels.
Bodegas Navajas Reserva 2004, Rioja (pictured)
Smoky, oaky, fresh wood notes. Needs more time to integrate, which is surprising for a six-year-old wine. Good fruit concentration, solid core, classy. Decanting and aeration before serving advised. Shows interesting potential to evolve. Serve with roasted meat.