When residents of Changli - a small coastal county in Hebei , China's equivalent of France's Bordeaux region - pick wine for their tables, taste is not the only factor.
Although Changli is home to 45 wineries, local residents say they usually prefer something stronger. If they have to drink red wine, they choose only one brand - Great Wall from food giant Cofco, which opened its first winery in Changli. They also buy it only from the official agent's store.
'We've all heard suspicious tales about bootleg wine for years,' said Changli resident Zhao Yunfeng. 'When my family needs wine, we call someone we know at the factory to buy directly there or go to the Great Wall general sales agent's store. You don't want to give fake wine as a gift.'
Changli is one of China's largest production bases for red wine. The big domestic brands such as Great Wall, Maotai and Dragon Seal are there, and many households have a vineyard or someone working in the wine industry.
But local residents are cautious. They know how much of the local wine is produced. One grape grower in Shilipu town, Changli, said most of the wineries were mixing water, chemicals and artificial colours with grape juice, even though it took 100 per cent grape juice to be red wine.
'Eighty per cent of the wines made by these wineries along the highway were not 100 per cent grape juice,' he said, pointing down the road.
Some fake wine even contains no grape juice at all - but merely a mixture of alcohol, artificial colouring and chemicals.