Why did you become a chef? 'When I was five, I boiled an egg for myself for the first time and I've enjoyed cooking ever since. At 19, I found a part-time apprenticeship in a restaurant and decided to enrol as a student in a culinary school. I attended the Tsuji Culinary Institute, in Osaka, where I learned the fun- damental theories of world cuisines, such as Chinese, French and Italian. In Japanese cuisine, the most important thing to master is a flawless bowl of dashi soup base. After one year, I had completed these courses and begun my apprenticeship, which usually lasts six years.'
How was the apprenticeship? 'I was required to practise everything: chopping ingredients; washing dishes; the proper technique for pouring tea; serving the dishes; accompanying the master chef to shop in the market; and even cleaning the toilets. I spent two years preparing ingredients, steaming rice and learning how to cook hot dishes, specialising in yakimono (grilled dishes) and nimono (simmered dishes). In the last two years I cut raw fish and studied how to make hand rolls, sushi and sashimi. After passing strict tests, my master chef allowed me to stand at the sushi bar for one year to finish my apprenticeship.'
How did you come to work at Tokyo's Michelin-starred Sushiko Honten? 'One of my teachers at the institute took me to sample the food and meet chef Mamoru Sugiyama. They asked me if I wanted to become a trainee and I could not pass up such a great opportunity. Mr Sugiyama is a demanding chef. Whenever I did something wrong he would scold me and hit my head. In Japan, this is acceptable. It's our tradition to respect our teachers, obey orders and apologise for wrongdoings. The master is like a father to us - he teaches us all he knows.'
Do Japanese chefs value Michelin stars? 'In general, they do not pay too much attention to Michelin. Japanese restaurants don't place much emphasis on decor or ambience. What we care about is upholding our culinary traditions and preparing our food with the freshest ingredients available.'
What is Sushi Ta-ke? 'It's a collaboration between the 1957 & Co restaurant group and Sushiko Honten. About 70 per cent of the hot items on the a la carte menu originated at Sushiko Honten. Mr Sugiyama handpicks seasonal fish from the Tsukiji market in Tokyo for both restaurants. Our signature dishes are boiled golden-eye snapper head and grilled Grade A5-12 Kagoshima beef.'
What are you looking forward to doing in Hong Kong? 'Eating my way around Chinese regional cuisines. I can't get used to the noise in Causeway Bay, though. My employers put me in an apartment behind Sogo. The noise sounds like little bees flying - even during the small hours.'
