Strong finish

A recent thread on eGullet asks, 'Galangal vs ginger - is there a big difference?' It surprised me that the question was even being asked - the person who started the thread answered it himself, writing that he found galangal 'far more spicy and fiery than ginger'.

So in a word, yes, there is a huge difference between the two rhizomes. Unlike the person who started the thread, I don't find galangal spicy or fiery; rather, its flavour is medicinal and pine-y. However you describe it, the taste is nothing like that of ginger.

The eGullet poster might have been confused because the many variations on the rhizome's name often have the word 'ginger' in them, and with its thin, smooth skin, galangal looks similar to young spring ginger. There are several varieties of galangal, the most common of which are greater galangal and lesser galangal. The former is the easiest to find - it's larger but not as strong. It's one of the ingredients in the tom yum kung packets sold at supermarkets, which also contain lemongrass, red chilli and fresh lime - the aromatics you need to make the Thai soup. Fresh lesser galangal, which is darker, can be found in shops selling Southeast Asian products and as dried slices or in powder form at Chinese medicine shops.

When buying galangal, follow the same criteria you would for ginger: look for plump, smooth-skinned specimens that feel heavy and firm.

The strong taste of galangal is delicious with fish. For a Thai dish of fish cakes with galangal, buy fish paste from a wet market and shape it into patties. Peel some greater galangal and cut it into fine shreds. Cut a couple of large Thai red chillies into 5mm-thick slices then finely julienne a few kaffir lime leaves. Heat some coconut milk until it curdles, then stir in one or two spoonfuls of green chilli paste. Add the galangal, chilli and lime leaves. Season to taste with fish sauce, sugar and a little white pepper. Add the fish patties and poach them in the liquid until cooked, then stir in a handful of holy basil leaves. Bring to a simmer and cook until the basil leaves are wilted, then serve with steamed jasmine rice.