Thrilling, improbable, the historical city of Petra in Jordan is arguably the world's most atmospheric archaeological site, consistently delivering moments of the highest visual drama. The Treasury, first glimpsed at the end of the impossibly narrow siq, the slot canyon entrance, is just the most famous of the multitude of tomb facades that have been hewn from the orange sandstone that encloses and defines the Petra basin and its side canyons.
Petra was 'lost' for hundreds of years, concealed in its desert canyon maze. Its builders, the mysterious Nabataeans, became supreme traders along the region's routes (including a spur of the Silk Road), dealing in frankincense and spices and goods from Africa. Ornate, cosmopolitan tomb facades testify to the influences of Egyptian, Graeco-Roman, Assyrian and Byzantine design. While little is known of their religion, its relics, especially its high places of sacrifice, are all around.
There are two problems with getting the best out of Petra. Its fame, indeed stardom (it hosted the climax of Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, among other media appearances), mean crowds, although they are concentrated around the main sites. And you will struggle to get round the marvels that litter this vast site: too much, in too little time.
Crowds have thinned since unrest broke out in the Middle East in January, but Jordan is still a safe destination. Although there have been peaceful protests in the capital, Amman, King Abdullah is a popular monarch and he has taken measures to ease the unrest.
Visiting Petra means having to do a lot of walking, so bring your boots, hat and guide book and be warned: Petra is extremely hot in summer and rainfall can spark flash floods in the canyons. Try not to come in a big group - a car and driver will give you flexibility and are easily arranged. Our driver was eagle-eyed on the road and an effective fixer.
Here is my suggested itinerary for two long and fairly demanding days. You can adjust your itinerary to suit your stamina levels and the weather conditions.