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Perfect match

Simon Tam

There are many variations of sea snail in spicy wine - some have more curry notes, some more chilli and others are full of heady Chinese wine aromas. Sichuan peppercorn has a numbing sensation that is exaggerated when the snails are eaten hot. Sea sweetness is carried in the texturally satisfying snail. There are two cooking methods - in one, the snails are stewed in their sauce for a long time, and in the second, they are poached briefly. The second is preferred for live snails and the first produces more tender meat, with better integrated flavours. The sea snail dish should, ideally, be paired with a beverage that bears plenty of fruit. Tannins are generally out - they will only accen- tuate the spice and the combination should be attempted by only the bravest of taste buds. Lively fruit will bring a welcome impression of freshness.

Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc 2010, Marlborough, New Zealand

This sauvignon blanc is brimming with fruit flavour. It's a very complex wine because the grapes come from several regions, all of which contribute their own terroir characteristics, the end result being greater than the sum of its parts. It's well suited to the sea snail dish because the tropical fruit interacts with the spicy wine and the numbing Sichuan peppercorns to bring a fire and ice contrast. The sea snails, whose job is to carry the spicy wine and impart sweet succulence, are also extended by the sauvignon blanc.

Available for HK$225 at Watson's Wine Cellar (tel: 2606 8828)

Charles Melton, Ros?of Virginia 2006, Barossa Valley, Australia

Good roses are flavourful and fruity, and far removed from the soda-pop image many people have of the wine. They are satisfying and work with a large range of foods. This version from Charles Melton has plentiful fruit so it's a good accompaniment for sea snails in spicy wine. The woodless rose exudes pure fruit and has structure to handle the spice, however heady and palate assaulting it may be. Just before the flavours leave the palate, the wine melts into the spiciness for a really savoury full stop.

Available for HK$469 at Oliver's (tel: 2869 5119)

Tsingtao beer, China

Tsingtao is characterised by a gentle, hoppy nose, a lot of freshness, a liveliness that carries to the palate and just a hint of necessary bitterness to round out the long length. For a dish of sea snails, this brand is preferred over others because it's restrained and not excessively sweet and heavy. The cold bubbles offer cleaning properties and welcome relief for palates tenderised by the chilli heat. It's not excessively gassy either, which means it wouldn't interfere too much with the texture of fresh snails.

Available for HK$10.90 for a 640ml bottle at Wellcome (tel: 2870 8888)

Simon Tam is Christie's head of wine, China

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