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Hakka Ye Ye

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5/F, The Goldmark, 502 Hennessy Road, Causeway Bay Tel: 2577 8018 Open: 11.45am-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm

Cuisine: Hakka

Price: about HK$180 per person without drinks and the service charge.

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Ambience: the casual eatery features a brightly lit dining room designed with a modern twist on traditional Chinese tea salon motifs (right). Tables are close together, and the wait staff had a hard time hearing orders over the din.

Pros: when I called to make a reservation, I was given a shortlist of popular items I might want to order ahead, in case they ran out early. At the table, we appreciated the easy-to-read and attractive menu, with items marked as signature and/or vegetarian dishes. A complimentary bowl of the daily soup (pork and dried pak choi on our visit) was a nice way to start the meal.

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Cons: service was lacklustre. The overall quality of flavour and freshness was inconsistent. The steamed turnip ball appetiser (HK$48) was nicely presented, but the shredded turnip and corn flour mixture had the texture of plasticine with none of the sweetness native to the vegetable. Duck with taro (HK$98 for a half order) was a flattened, deep-fried 'cake' of duck and mashed taro, which was too stale and dry to be enjoyable.

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