People are nostalgic for the old Macau. The one where the whiff of espresso wafts across tiled squares, where noodle vendors set up tables in a lay-by after dark, where restaurants can be found in parks and gardens, down narrow alleys and in quaint old houses. The one with soul. Is it still there? Could it hope to co-exist with the brash Michelin-star-splattered sector of the new Macau? For now, old and new do not seem to be on the verge of divorce, and there are echoes of the old Macau in a few hotels and casinos, whether architecturally, or reflected in menus and ingredients, and even dai pai dong-style joints. Robuchon shines, still better probably than any French restaurant in Hong Kong, but the rash of Italian, Japanese and Cantonese may hold less appeal for the visitor from Hong Kong. Charming host It is dangerous to name a restaurant after yourself, but Antonio is it. He's the one to get the clams at Red Market and the potatoes in Coloane Village square. To bank the money; he is also a charming host. Antonio has been associated with restaurants that have tended to go downhill on his departure but, for the past two years, he has run his own. He'll do pataniscas and octopus rice, even rabbit, if he's warned in advance, but the menu stands up. Goats cheese dribbled with honey, bacalhau com Natas, clams in white wine and seafood rice (above) are all hard to fault. Antonio Rua dos Negociantes No 3, Taipa, Macau (853) 2899 9998 WWW.ANTONIOMACAU.COM Champagne set Being the only restaurant and bar in this months-old property, Vida Rica (above) is a one-size-fits-all operation, and the a la carte menu offers an East-West canon of Cantonese, Portuguese and high-end European. But this being part of China, all dishes are very chi chi and studded variously with abalone, pata negra and caviar. The design is well conceived, with a breakfast buffet area discreetly half-hidden at one end, and with partial private rooms dotting the space. And the bar, with what resembles a catwalk running its entire length, has become rather fashionable with the Champagne set. More Landmark than the Grand old dame, for sure. Vida Rica 2/F Mandarin Oriental Macau, Avenida Dr Sun Yat Sen, NAPE, Macau (853) 8805 8888 WWW.MANDARINORIENTAL.COM/MACAU Oozing soul The Wynn people wanted a 'local' restaurant and, through the shocking green tones and massive murals, seem to have come from nowhere in particular. The menu perfectly reflects Macau's own triumvirate of cuisines: Cantonese, Portuguese and Macanese. It is great to see the latter two brought, since last April, to an audience who don't know how to (or want to) access local restaurants, and lifted from home-cooked style to artfully presented dishes made from premium ingredients. But dishes such as African chicken, duck rice and serradura still ooze soul, thanks to chef Kong, who used to run the kitchen at the still-missed Flamingo restaurant in the former Hyatt Regency. Starting this month Cafe Encore and other restaurants in the hotel are offering vegetarian and vegan menus on request. Cafe Encore G/F Wynn Encore, Rua Cidade de Sintra, NAPE, Macau (853) 8986 3616 www.wynnmacau.com Upping the ante When Henri handed over the reins to son Raymond, Raymond gave the place a makeover. He has upped the ante, taking passable food into a destination restaurant. Caldo verde soup shows the new pedigree: smooth with finely sliced cabbage, topped with 'fresh' churico and olive oil. Spicy king prawns, curried fresh crab and serious steak (above) are the house specials. Henri's Galley 4G-H, Avenida da Republica, R/C, Macau (853) 2855 6251 Contemporary class In the dining room, hotel school students come face-to-face with giant pepper mills and corkscrew for the first time. The kitchen brings it on with dishes like bacalhau risotto (above) and scallops served with Portuguese black pudding - modern takes on traditional ingredients; and the Friday night Macanese buffet is a sellout every week. The wine list is probably Macau's best for Portuguese wines. Educational Restaurant IFT, Colina de Mong-Ha, Rampe do Forte de Hong-Ha, Macau (853) 2851 5222 www.ift.edu.mo