OF ALL the seas, none compares with the Mediterranean. It is fringed by lands that were once home to the Western world's great civilisations (and there are plenty of ruins to show for it), and where the kitchen god still reigns. From Lebanon to Spain, Provence to the Aegean they have been busy for centuries creating great dishes. But many Hong Kong people don't even know where the Mediterranean is, at least that's the impression Kim Murphy got a while back. So as part of her move to broaden the scope of the previously Greek restaurant Bacchus, which her company, FABS, manages, she invited the local Chinese press around to educate them. The result is an all-you-need-to-know glossary of terms from pesto to couscous, available to all diners. Mediterranean cooking is the result of sun and sea, which is perhaps why Murphy is so keen on it. She comes from that other great sun and sea culture, Australia, which also has large settlements of Mediterranean people. But the original Greek emphasis at Bacchus has been scrapped in favour of the broader view, using super-fresh Australian ingredients. People were not so much coming for the food but to smash the plates, Murphy says. It got out of control and even embarrassed local Greeks who came to dine. Call 529-9032 for regular lunch or dinner reservations or for information about a series of gourmet evenings featuring a range of Mediterranean cooking and guest wines. ALTHOUGH he has been here since June, the Island Shangri-La has only recently begun to make a big noise about the new chef at Petrus, cheerful Gerard Cavuscens. His background: 20 years in various top restaurants in his native Switzerland and France, most recently spending six years as chef de cuisine at the renowned Restaurant Girardet, the only restaurant ever to hold three stars in the Michelin Guide. So there you are; top price, top quality, a top view of Hong Kong and a wine list to mortgage the flat for. Highlight of the new seasonal menu is foie gras, the ultimate French speciality. A CHANCE to win a trip for two to San Francisco comes with dinner at the Parc27 restaurant in the Park Lane Hotel until October 2. Guest chef, Californian David Soohoo, will entertain the winners of a lucky draw at his own restaurant, the Chinois in Sacramento. The trip also includes five nights at the Park Fifty Five and a chance to visit the Renaissance vineyard before being flown back by Northwest Airlines. Soohoo is a master of East-West cooking. A third-generation Chinese chef, he became interested in incorporating Western styles into Eastern cooking in the early '80s, at about the same time American chefs started adopting Asian influences. 'They were putting ginger on steak, why couldn't I stir-fry cream?' he says.