FROM season to season, the changes in menswear are far more subtle than in women's collections: a looser cut to jackets and trousers, larger lapels, and narrower ties, for example. The two elements that most obviously define a collection are colour and fabric. This autumn/winter, Trussardi, of Italy, has concentrated on luxurious fabrics in dark, rich colours. Materials of contrasting weights and textures are used, including cashmere, silk, cotton, velvet, tweed and a range of leathers. As for colours, navy blue and a variety of browns from chocolate to sand take over from the greys and blues of more recent winter looks. Nappa, suede, nubuc, deerskin and sheepskin are expertly stitched and cut, but used as if they were fabrics. Soft and supple, they drape over the body in a sophisticated manner. There is a sporty, relaxed feel to the autumn/winter knits - everything from chunky cable knits to loose V-necks, oversize cardigans and cosy turtle necks. Worthy of special mention are the knitted tunic and pants: these comfortable, yet stylish, garments represent a new direction for men. The silhouette for formal wear is long and lean. Jackets feature high lapels and shoulders that are soft and sloping. Three-button single-breasted styles with pocket flaps are favoured. Vests are sometimes worn tucked into trousers. Trousers employ a slender cut, and turn-ups are back in vogue.