Ambience: the room is quiet and decorated in gold tones with bright lights (right). We had a comfortable - and quite large - table by the window.

Pros: the food, for the most part, is good versions of Cantonese dishes.

Cons: the tong sui (dessert soups) were nothing to write home about. Stir-fried dried scallops with bean sprouts, mung bean vermicelli and osmanthus (eggs scrambled so they resembled the tiny yellow flowers, HK$128) could have used more dried scallops.

Recommended dishes: we started out with double-boiled fish head soup with Chinese herbs (HK$168), which was fragrant, well-flavoured, clear and intense. The pieces of fish - scooped out of the broth and served separately - were so tender that even many of the bones could be eaten. Egg whites with mango and scallops (HK$108) showcased the soft, tender, subtle egg while the other ingredients added flavour highlights. The steamed crab with egg white in Chinese yellow wine was a bargain at HK$238 (right) - other places charge a lot more. While the egg white was too firm, the crab was wonderfully sweet, fresh and succulent. Our favourite dishes were the Lee House-style chicken (HK$320, far right) and the steamed minced pork with salty fish (HK$88). As soon as the chicken was served, our noses went closer to the platter, drawn in by the enticing scent. The meat had the firm texture of fresh chicken, and the flesh and skin were subtly infused with Chinese rice wine. Even the white meat was moist. The pork dish was stellar - the meat was hand-minced with plenty of fat so it had great texture, and it was perfectly seasoned so it tasted fine on its own but wasn't too salty to eat with the salted fish.

What else? There are a couple of private rooms that are shut off from the rest of the restaurant, and a couple more that would seem as if you're eating in a fishbowl - they're surrounded by glass, leaving the diners on view to others.